Blue Primrose

Crochet: An Introduction

2009-08-03T09:06:00.000+02:00

They say that a picture is worth a thousand words. Put it to the test: here's a video describing the basics of crochet. And if that's not enough, you can read the explanations below.

Learn how to begin any crocheting project
sent by craftmastery

Supplies

Yarn
Crochet hook
Scissors

Instructions

Before you start, know that crochet stitches involve twisting yarn. The stitches therefore look different depending which side of your work you're looking at. When you're joining several separate pieces of work together, check to make sure they're all facing the same direction so that the finished piece will have a uniform appearance.

Hand positions

First, you have to learn to hold your tool.

There are 2 ways to hold a crochet hook (here, shown for the right hand):

like a pencil...

...or like a fork.

Then, you have to guide your yarn with your other hand.

Guide the yarn with your index finger.

Basic stitches

The chain forms the base row of every crochet project. This starting chain is always made up only of chain stitches, but chains can be used elsewhere in the work, as well.

The very first stitch is a slip knot.

Set-up (slip knot)

Make a loop in the end of the yarn, leaving a few extra cm/inches.

Slide the hook inside this loop, hook pointing down.

Pass the yarn (that's still connected to the skein) over the top and then under the hook.

Pull the yarn through the loop by pulling the hook from left to right.
Gently tighten the slip knot on the hook.

Yarn over (yo), to make a new loop

Take the yarn attached to the skein.
Place it over and then under the hook.
If making a new loop, pull it from left to right through the previous loop to form new loop.

Chain (ch)

Yarn over hook.
Use hook to pull the yarn through the loop.

Slip stitch (sl. st.)

Pass the hook through the previous stitch.
Yarn over.
Use the hook to pull the yarn through the stitch and the loop that's on the hook in 1 motion.

Double crochet (dc, British)/Single croch

et (sc, American)

Pass the hook through the previous stitch.

Yarn over.
Pull the yarn through the base stitch (A).
Yarn over again.
Pull the yarn through the 2 loops on the hook (B).

Half treble crochet (htr, British)/Half double crochet (hdc, American)

At the beginning of the row, skip 2 sts.

*Yarn over (A).

Pass the hook through the previous stitch (remember to skip 2 sts.).
Yarn over again.
Pull the yarn through the 1st loop.
Yarn over again (B).
Pull the yarn through the 3 loops (C)*.
Repeat from * to * to make another half treble crochet/half double crochet.

Treble crochet (tr, British)/Double crochet (dc, American)

At the beginning of the row, skip 3 sts. from the hook.
*Yarn over (A).
Pass the hook through the previous stitch.
Yarn over again.
Pull the yarn through the 2 left loops (B).
Yarn over again (C).
Pull the yarn through the last 2 loops on the hook (D)*.
Repeat * to * to make another treble crochet/double crochet.

Work in the round

Make a chain of the number of sts. indicated in your pattern.
Connect the last stitch to the first with a slip stitch.
The ring is formed (A).
! - Each round starts with some chain stitches to bring the hook to the level of the new round to be worked.
For the first round, pass the hook directly through the ring and not in any of the links of the chain.
For the following rounds, pass the hook in the top of the preceding row's stitches.
At the end of each round, pass the hook through the 1st stitch of that row and make a slip stitch.
! - Pieces worked in the round can't be turned inside out. The work is done only on the right side.

Learn more

:laura:

Cross-Stitch: An Introduction

2009-08-02T09:03:00.000+02:00

Cross-stitch or counted thread embroidery consists of reproducing, on fabric (usually one with even weaving so stitches can be easily counted), a design laid out in a chart. On the chart, symbols indicate color, number of threads used and stitches required, and location of stitches. Stitches are counted and usually consist of a simple X-shaped stitch.

For beginners, it's useful to buy a kit where all the thread is supplied and the pattern is printed on the fabric.

Supplies

Materials

Many colors of embroidery floss
Fabric

Tools

Sewing hoop
Small embroidery scissors, thin and pointed
Thimble
Needles
- rounded ends (n° 19-24) for Aïda or Unifil fabric
- pointed ends (n° 5) when using waste canvas on fabrics

Instructions

Generally, it's advised not to use more than 2 strands of floss at a time.

The cross stitch consists of 2 diagonal stitches that cross to form an X.

You can embroider your work by stitch for by line. However, if you want your embroidery to be high-quality, pay attention to the direction fo each half-stitch: if you embroider left to right, the top stitch will always be the one pointing up to the right.

Tips

To start a new piece of floss, fold a piece of about 80 cm (31-1/2 inches) in half and thread the 2 ends a small distance through your needle. Make the first half-stitch of the X, not pulling the end loop all the way through, and when the needle comes out again on the wrong side of the fabric, pass it through the loop. This way, you won't have to hold the end of the thread under 2 or 3 stitches until it's held in place and the work will be neat.

Use a different needle for each color. That way, you won't need to constantly detach and reattach your needle.

For isolated stitches, use a single thread and do the stitch twice. It will be solid and there won't be any risk of fraying.

Use a magnifying glass to avoid straining your eyes. There are light, hands-free versions that can be worn around the neck.

Photocopy your charts, magnifying them 50% or 100%. They're easier to read that way.

Mark the squares of the chart that you've already done. That way, you'll always know where you are.

Once a work is finished, don't hesitate to wash it by hand. Let it air dry and iron it on the wrong side, covered with a wet cloth.

Thank you to Jasmine for sending us her beautiful work.

:laura:

Blue Star August

2009-08-01T12:38:00.000+02:00

Every month, Blue Marguerite features one of its contributors as the "Blue Star". This month, we're featuring Megan from the blog Brassy Apple. She was our first English-language contributor. Read on and meet Brassy Apple!

Blue Star August: Brassy Apple

A multi-talented designer always on the lookout for new ideas, Megan at the blog Brassy Apple took some time to share her inspirations with us. Welcome to the colorful world behind Brassy Apple and meet Megan, our first English-language contributor.

BM: Through your crafts, we see your creativity and your fun-loving spirit. How would you describe your world?

Megan: My world? I think my world is a constant battle between my creative, free-spirited side and my organized, dutiful "Mommy" side. Making it all work and fit into one day is a challenge! I always keep a sketchpad close at hand for when ideas strike. I love remaking old items for my home, friends, and family, and I'm always looking for my next project.

BM: What designs inspire your work?

Megan: Well, I love bright, bold designs, but I also adore black and white combinations! And bird silhouettes, pears, quotes, and chandeliers.

BM: What are your favorite media to work in?

Megan: My favorites are fabric and paper. Really, what I enjoy most is taking these and creating something new--a new kit, design, or pattern for my business or making a one-of-a-kind special order for a customer.

BM: What are some of your current projects?

Megan: My main and ever ongoing current project is patterns! I am working on a group of them that will hopefully be distributed worldwide. I'm also updating and creating more DIY apron kits and other kits for women and children that I sell at my store.

BM: You were the first English-speaking contributor to Blue Marguerite. What motivated you to agree to participate in our website?

Megan: I enjoy sharing my ideas and feel blessed when others can relate to or appreciate the things I've created. The Internet connects languages, ethnicities, time zones, and cultures. When I was approached to share on your website, I jumped at the chance to do just that--share, connect, and hopefully inspire someone else.

BM: Do you have any advice for our readers?

Megan: I'd say you need to find your passion, follow your heart, and don't wait for the day when you will "have more time." Do what you love and you will love what you do!

BM: Thank you.

Creative Idea: Personalized Magnets

Laura
August 2009

Needlepoint: An Introduction

2009-08-01T09:24:00.001+02:00

Needlepoint, or canvas embroidery, consists of embroidering from left to right (for right-handed people) and diagonally, always using the same half-stitch.

When the line is finished, return from right to left, with the stitches pointing in the same direction as those in the preceding row.

Supplies

Materials

Multiple colors of woolen or cotton thread
Canvas: light, loosely woven fabric that thread can easily pass through. You can buy it with a pattern pre-printed or you can design your own pattern.

Tools

Rounded-end needle (n° 18,19, or 20)
Scissors specially designed for canvas or a thread nipper
Thimble
Needlepoint frame or sewing hoop

Instructions

Put the canvas in a frame so that it doesn't become misshapen. Unsecured canvases quickly lose their finish as a result of hand contact. The fabric gets soft and deformed and stitches will lose their regularity.

Start working at the top of your canvas, at the left if you're right-handed and at the right if you're left-handed. This method prevents you from repeating or ruining stitches you've already done.

To start, leave 4 to 5 cm (1-1/2 to 2 inches) of thread hanging on the wrong side and trap that thread behind the following stitches (never make a knot).

Make your half-stitches loose enough that they lay on the canvas without pulling it.

To finish a thread, slide your thread (on the wrong side of the fabric) under 2 cm (3/4 inch) of preceding stitches.

Tips

The canvas should be completely covered where stitching is done. If you can see the fabric between your stitches, your stitches are too tight. Remember not to pull your thread too tight.

To make sure that you haven't forgotten any stitches in your design, put it against a window and check for transparency to see if you've missed a stitch.

To straighten or smooth a finished work, use a spray bottle and wet the entire canvas. Once it's wet, secure it in a frame with the aid of pins. Start at the corners. Let it dry at least 24 hours.

:laura:

Embroidery Vocabulary

2009-07-31T09:20:00.001+02:00

Basic embroidery terms you should know:

Chart

The chart is a four-sectioned diagram that lays out the pattern to be embroidered. Each little square represents a square in the fabric. Each thread color has its own symbol. By following the symbols in the squares, you always know which color to embroider. Be careful, though: the size of the chart doesn't always correspond to the size of the embroidery. The latter depends on the number of stitches per centimeter (or per inch) of the fabric.

Hoop

Indispensable for beginners, the sewing hoop holds the fabric in place and enables you to get an even, regular stitch. It's made up of 2 wodden circles that fit together, one inside the other. To begin, use a medium-sized hoop (18 cm/7 inches).

Strands of thread

A strand of thread is a "strip" of thread that's ready to be threaded into the needle. To make your work easier, prepare the colors you're going to need for your project. Group your threads according to pattern symbol and then cut them into sections of 45 to 50 cm (17 to 20 inches).

Aïda fabric

Designed to be cross-stitched, Aïda fabrics are ideal for beginners. The weft is regular and the holes are quite visible. The closeness of the weaving varies from 3 stitches per centimeter (8 stitches per inch) to 7 stitches per centimeter (18 stitches per inch). The finer the weaving, the tighter the stitches will be and the more meticulous the work will be.

Unifil fabric

Unifil fabric, also used for cross-stitch, is embroidered differently than Aïda fabric. It is woven at the rate of 8 to 12 threads per centimeter (20 to 30 threads per inch) and so each embroidery stitch is 2 or 3 threads wide and high. Unifil's weaving isn't always very regular (mostly because it's made of linen), and that makes regularity of stitching more difficult. On the other hand, the result is very intricate. To make traditional embroidery works, you can use any sort of fabric: cotton, linen, wool, silk, etc. It's more or less easy to adapt the design to the chosen fabric and fabric color. If you want to embroider things that are used regularly (like household linens), choose cotton or linen fabric that will hold up under frequent machine washes.

Waste canvas

Waste canvas is a very loosely woven fabric used to cross-stitch on very tightly woven fabrics (like a t-shirt). You baste the waste canvas onto the fabric and use it as a guide for stitching. When your work is finished, you gently tug the waste canvas strands, one at a time, to remove them. Your stitching remains with only the main fabric as its support.

Threads

Embroidery floss (or stranded cotton)

Embroidery floss (also known as "stranded cotton") is the most commonly used thread. It's made up of 6 lightly twisted strands that can be separated. It's glossy and easy to work with. There are 428 colors to choose from, and they don't fade. You won't usually use more than 2 or 3 strands of floss at a time when embroidering. The number of strands to use is always indicated on the embroidery chart.

Pearl (or perle) cotton

Unlike embroidery floss, pearl cotton can't be divided. Instead, it is available in many different thicknesses (n° 3, 5, 8, and 12, from thickest to thinnest). Pearl cotton is a very shiny, twisted thread that doesn't fade. It's used less often than embroidery floss.

Flower thread

Flower thread is also a cotton thread, but it differs from the first 2 threads in that it's matte, very fine, and used in double or triple strands.

DMC embroidery floss

DMC embroidery floss is a shimmery 100% cotton thread. Ideal for openwork embroidery, it's available in several thicknesses, but n° 25 is most often used.

:laura:

Embroidery: Main Principles

2009-07-30T09:03:00.000+02:00

Embroidery is an easy and relaxing activity. Really! It's calming...as long as you don't make knots or tangle your thread! Here are the main principles to get your started, but keep in mind that there are many different types of embroidery to explore.

A few are:

needlepoint or canvas embroidery which consists of embroidering from left to right (for right-handers) and diagonally, always with the same half-stitch.
cross-stitch or counted thread embroidery which consists of reproducing, on fabric (usually one with even weaving so that stitches can be easily counted), a design laid out in a chart. On the chart, symbols indicate color, number of threads used and stitches required, and location of stitches. Stitches are counted and usually consist of a simple X-shaped stitch.

Principles

The majority of the time, you'll be following a pattern on a chart: the stitches to make and the colors to use are noted by symbols in a series of small squares.

Always start embroidering your pattern from the center toward the outside, color by color, counting the stitches and following the chart.

For an even-looking result, always stitch in the same direction and, above all, maintain the same tension in all your stitches: neither too tight nor too loose.

Never make knots: this makes small bumps that lessen the quality of the finished work.

Supplies

Materials

Fabric
Embroidery floss
Carbon paper, if you need to transfer a pattern onto fabric

Tools

Round-ended needle (n° 19 to 24) for Aïda or Unifil fabric
Long, pointed-end needle (n° 5 or 7) when using waste canvas on fabrics
Small, thin, pointed embroidery scissors
Thimble
Sewing hoop to hold your fabric while you work

Instructions

Fabric preparation

Mark the center by folding the fabric in 4 so that it corresponds to the center of the pattern on the chart.

Position the fabric securely in the sewing hoop. As you get further along in your pattern, move the hoop as needed.

Thread preparation

Your thread, or strands of thread, shouldn't be longer than 40 to 50 cm (16 to 20 inches) or else it will tangle easily.

Prepare as many colors as needed for the specific pattern you're making. The more colors you use, the more important it is to keep them well-organized.

Embroidery

To start embroidering with a strand of thread, leave 3 or 4 cm (1-3/16 or 1-9/16 inches) of thread dangling at the back of the work and hold it with your index finger.

Trap this dangling end of thread behind your first stitches. That way, you don't need to make a knot.

You can embroider with 2 or 3 different colors at the same time if your pattern calls for it, but be careful not to tangle them!

End each strand of thread the way you started it: by sliding it under 2 or 3 stitches on the back of the work (never make a knot!).

GIMP (GNU Image Manipulation Program)

2009-07-29T09:08:00.001+02:00

Longing for Adobe Photoshop but don't have the money to buy it? Consider GIMP (GNU Image Manipulation Program) instead. This software is a subsidiary of GNU, an operating system that's used to provide free alternatives to many current computer programs. GIMP has all of the same basic photo editing capabilities as Photoshop (cropping, resizing, layers, curves, intelligent selection tools, etc.) and, once learned, can turn out stylish results for photo retouching and image composition. Although it's not quite up to Photoshop's caliber in all areas, it works well for most amateur photographers who want to give a professional edge to their pictures.

Overview

Program: GIMP (GNU Image Manipulation Program)

Internet address: http://www.gimp.org

Description: A photo editing program that has all of the same basic capabilities as Adobe Photoshop, but free!

Price: Free

Language: English, Croatian, Dutch, French, German, Italian, Korean, Norwegian, Russian, Spanish, Swedish

Useful Info: Available for free download from a variety of sources on a variety of operating systems (Unix, Windows, Mac).

Advantages:

Free
Fairly easy to use
Many tutorials available
Extensive help page
Many tools

Disadvantages:

No official download is available for download from its website (although they provide links to downloads)
Some bugs
Cannot be used to draw shapes

Tutorial

Go to the GIMP website.
Follow their links to download the latest version of GIMP.
Go to their tutorials pages and work through the tutorials to learn the basics of using GIMP.
Experiment with your own photographs!

:laura:

Sewing Supplies

2009-07-28T09:05:00.000+02:00

The minimum it takes to sew is a needle and thread. However, some additional sewing supplies won't hurt your creative efforts.

Essential supplies

To start, and to sew by hand, you need a kit that contains, at bare minimum:

Scissors of different sizes, pins, needles, thimble, tape measure, spools of thread, chalk

Assorted sizes of sewing needles
Small-headed straight pins (the ones with colored ball-shaped heads are less precise)
Sewing thread (white, black, colored...)
Sewing scissors
Tape measure
Fabric pencil or chalk (or a regular pencil, in a pinch)
Iron and ironing board

Basic supplies

As you move on to more ambitious projects, you'll find that you need to add some more specific equipment to your sewing box.

Open sewing basket, with basic supplies

The essentials, plus:
Thimble
Thread nipper
Large pair of scissors for cutting
Small pair of scissors for detail work
Magnet
Large, flat, graduated metal ruler
Tailor's ham for ironing details
And, of course, a sewing machine, your indispensable ally for all sorts of sewing projects: clothes, decorations, accessories...

Watch this demonstration to learn the basics of using a sewing machine.

Advice for use

Remember that these supplies, sometimes expensive at purchase, can last for a long time if you use them well.

Scissors

Scissors have specific uses. Don't cut anything except fabric with your sewing scissors.

Scissors come in different sizes. Start with 2 pairs:
- large scissors for cutting fabric (dressmaker shears)
- and small scissors (embroidery scissors, appliqué scissors) for more detailed work (forming buttonholes, pinking...)

For cutting threads, it's better to use a thread nipper (also called a thread snip or thread scissors) rather than regular scissors (to keep scissors' blades from becoming dull).

Thread nipper

Store scissors away from humidity and in a case, if possible.

Remember that scissors can be sharpened. So if you love to sew, invest in a good pair, because the quality will last longer than you'll remember the price you paid for them.

Needles and Pins

Needles and pins also need some attention.

They can become dull if you use a pincushion that is too hard and they can rust in a humid environment.

Store them in an airtight, firmly shut container.

Don't mix needles and pins and you'll save time!

To arrange your workspace, use a magnet that will quickly collect scattered pins, even ones you don't notice.

Fabric Markers

Mark your fabric with a fabric pencil. It's more precise than chalk and cleaner than a felt-tip pen (which you shouldn't use!).
! - Chalks and fabric pencils come in several colors, which is practical when working with several colors of fabric.

To mark outlines on the back of a fabric pinned to a pattern, put a sheet of carbon paper under the fabric and trace the outline with a tracing wheel. You'll have a dotted outline.

Tracing wheel

Iron

Always use a clothes iron for your work: it's an indispensable ally for successful sewing.

A good iron is an iron with:
- a clean ironing plate,
- an adjustable thermostat,
- the very useful steam function. But it needs to be able to work without steam, too (to iron a pattern or activate fusible binding).

For more precision, use a tailor's ham as well as an ironing board.

Always work with well-ironed fabric.

Always iron on the wrong side of fabric.

Tape Measure

Choose a tape measure isn't permanently encased, if you can. They're generally graduated from 0 to 150 cm (0 to 60 inches/5 ft) on both sides.
! - The graduation runs in opposite directions front and back.

The flat graduated ruler typically measures 60 cm (2 ft):
- Choose a metal ruler (more solid than plastic) and smooth the 2 sides so that it moves more easily over fabric.
- Store it flat so that it doesn't deform.

Tools to create and adapt patterns

For ambitious seamstresses (and seamsters), here's the list of supplies necessary for the different stages of creating clothing items.

Paper (a roll of it, preferably white)
Pencil
Large, flat graduated ruler
Set square
French curve
Paper scissors
Utility knife

Scissors of different sizes, thread nipper, pins, magnet, needles, iron, thimble, tape measure, spools of thread, chalk, tracing wheel, French curve

Tools to create a toile

The basics, plus:
Cloth: cotton-based, soft, white or ecru, 140 cm (55-1/8 inches) long
Brightly-colored thread
Pencil
French curve
Tracing wheel
Dark-colored carbon paper
Large, smooth table
Sewing machine

:laura:

Furoshiki: An Introduction

2009-07-27T09:15:00.000+02:00

An essential element of Japanese culture, the furoshiki is a traditional scarf that can cover and transport anything. It was originally used as a bundle to carry clothes or toiletries, but now its uses tend more toward wrapping gifts and carrying everyday objects. It came back into fashion as a mode of eco-packaging that avoids the use of plastic bags.

You can use them in the above ways, as a decorative object (hung on a wall, as table linens, etc.), or as a purse.

Supplies

Square fabric or scarf. Allow for about 1 m (40 inches) each side for an object measuring 20 cm (8 inches).

Main principles

The technique simply involves folding and knotting the square of fabric.

4 basic knots are used in all the patterns:

Vertical square knot

Square knot

Bow tie

Single loop bow

Source: a Japanese website found by Raffa, an ecological blogger.

Instructions

Choose your fabric according to the occasion. There's a large variety of materials, colors, and patterns available, ranging from traditional to modern.
Figure out the size of the fabric you'll need.
- Adapt the size of the fabric to the object you're going to wrap. You'll need about 1 m (40 inches) of fabric for an object measuring 20 cm (8 inches).
- The size varies between 20 and 240 cm (8 and 95 inches). The most common size is 75 cm (30 inches) and the most popular size is 45 cm (18 inches).
Place your object to be wrapped in the middle of the fabric.
Wrap your object following a pattern or simply following your inspiration. If you opt to follow a pattern, know that there are at least 20 different types of furoshiki. Take the time to choose well and to understand the logic behind the pattern and the instructions before starting.
Choose your wrapping style according to the object you're going to wrap.
- Basic Carry Wrap, 4 Tie Wrap, or Watermelon Carry Wrap
- Shoulder Carry Wrap, Long Object Wrap, or Flat Object Wrap
- Slender Object Carry Wrap, 2 Books Carry Wrap, or 2 Knots Carry Wrap
- Hidden Knot Wrap, 1-Bottle Carry Wrap, or 2-Bottle Carry Wrap
- Padding Carry Wrap or Hand Carry Wrap

Source of illustrations: Ministry of the Environment, Government of Japan

Other wrapping examples are available on a completely Japanese website. They're understandable thanks to illustrated patterns. Click freely along the left-hand menu and find something that you love!

Explore further

History of furoshiki

Some basic wrapping techniques (in French, but the pictures can be easily followed)

Links and instructions for furoshiki (in French, but the pictures can be easily followed)

Source: "Sophie The Blog!!"

:laura:

Shrink Plastic: An Introduction

2009-07-26T09:12:00.000+02:00

Jewelry, key rings, Christmas decorations, decorations for scrapbooking, and why not a tag for the dog's collar...? What have these things all got in common?

Yes, that’s right: it's shrink plastic, the material that brings to life even your most eccentric projects. All it takes is a drawing on a sheet of plastic that shrinks and thickens in the oven! Child’s play for the little ones, but also fun for adults...

Supplies

Materials

1 sheet of shrink plastic (around 2€/$2.80 for an A4 sheet)
1 sheet of aluminum foil
Varnish (optional)
Something to color with: colored pencils, paints, chalk, felt tip pens, crayons, water color pencils (for doing monochromes), etc.

Tools

Scissors
Hole punch

Instructions

Draw your design on the rough side of the sheet of shrink plastic and color it in. The shrink plastic is transparent, so you can draw whatever you want!
Cut it out.
If you want to be able to hang your creation, make a hole in it with the hole punch.
Put your design on a sheet of aluminium foil in a pre-heated oven at around 100°C (212°F). Ensure that the rough side is on the bottom. You will see the plastic start to shrink.
The shrinking proportions and the baking time, as well as the temperature of the oven, vary according to the different brands. In all cases, when taking the plastic out of the oven, it should be flexible. If it’s not, continue to heat it.
Once taken out of the oven, flatten the plastic between two books or give it a 3D shape that you want (wrapping it around a pen or a glass, for example).
Let it cool.
In order to fix the colors, you can varnish your creation with a gouache varnish, which won't dissolve the colors.

Translation: Emma-Jane

:laura:

Fabric Christmas Ornament DIY

2009-07-25T09:22:00.001+02:00

It's Christmas in July! ;-)

Make Christmas tree ornaments with your fabric scraps. It's a simple idea that allows for unlimited combinations of colors and designs.

Level: Easy
Creation time: 1h

Supplies

Materials

Styrofoam ball
Fabric scraps (here, a printed fabric and a plain fabric)
Straight pins with small heads
Ribbon

Tools

Scissors
Drinking glass (optional)

Instructions

For 1 ornament measuring about 10 cm (4 inches) in diameter.

Decoration

Cut out about 90 pieces of fabric measuring 5 cm (2 inches) square.

Fold each piece in half, then in a triangle.

Apply the decoration

Support the styrofoam ball on the open end of the drinking glass.

With a pin, attach the top of the triangle to the ball, making sure that the pin will be hidden by the 2 flaps.

Attach the 2 bottom corners of the triangle with 2 other pins.

Attach the first 4 pieces so that they form a square.

Make the second row with a contrasting fabric color:
- Pin 4 triangles at the 4 corners of your square, halfway into the square.
- Pin 1 triangle between each of these 4 triangles.
  ! - This row and the following ones are composed of 8 fabric triangles each.

Continue making rows of triangles, alternating contrasting fabrics.

Cover the entire ball with fabric triangles.

Make sure to hide each set of bottom pins with the following row of fabric.

Final touches

Take a piece of fabric that has the edges folded under.

Place it on top to hide the edges of the last triangles.

Attach the ribbon.

Source: "Le petit caillou dans ma poche" ("The Little Pebble in My Pocket")

:laura:

How to Decoupage: An Introduction

2009-07-24T09:17:00.000+02:00

Decoupage is a specific method of gluing paper in decorative designs on all sorts of surfaces.

It’s a versatile art, as it can be done with wood, plastic, stone, metal, glass, or even wicker. It can be used on almost anything: trays, tea sets, furniture, etc., making it a good technique to use to spruce up boring or worn-out objects.

The main idea? Gluing paper in place to decorate a surface and then varnishing it to give it a seamless finish—it will look like it’s part of the original work rather than pasted on. It’s a simple technique that doesn’t cost much and doesn’t take much practice to get professional-looking results. Even children can easily create a decoupage project.

Supplies

Materials

Thin paper: consider tissue paper, napkins, magazine cut-outs, decoupage paper, scrapbook paper, etc. Regular paper can be used, but the thicker the paper, the more likely it is to bubble as it dries.
Glue: decoupage glue (like Mod Podge) or any water-based glue
Varnish: necessary when using a non-decoupage glue, but an additional layer of varnish may be needed even when using decoupage glue in order to protect your design from wear and water. Choose according to the type of object you're making.
- Decoupage glue works like varnish: apply several layers
- More powerful varnishes can be used: water-resistant ones like marine varnish or any specially-designated outdoor varnish work well. For effect, you can choose between transparent, colored, matte, glossy, or satin-finish varnishes
Transparent acrylic paint or Gesso primer (see the recipe for gesso) if you need a base coat

Tools

Paintbrush, varying in size according to the size of your work surface

Instructions

Prepare the base

If needed, sand the base and/or apply a coat of Gesso primer or transparent acrylic paint. This can be used to disguise the base color so that it doesn't affect the color or pattern you're applying. If you're using very thin paper, it will have a transparent effect and you'll be able to see the base color through it. A primer of Gesso or varnish is also recommended when using terra cotta or wood that might absorb the glue.

Prepare the pattern

Choose from one of the following methods:
- cut out a pattern from the paper
- use different bits of paper to create your own pattern
- use whole sheets of paper

If you use napkins: use only a single layer at a time and use only the smooth part (discard any raised edges).

Glue it together

Coat the surface with glue and place your pattern on top, taking care to smooth out any air bubbles.

Once the pattern's in place, coat it with varnish.
- Start from the center or inside and work your way out. Remember to smooth your surface ahead of the varnish to make sure no air is trapped.
- Be careful: don't use too much glue or add too many coats of varnish at once, because the paper could tear.

Let it dry and add more coats of varnish until it's as smooth and thick as you want it.
After applying several coats of varnish, the varnish can be sanded to give a smoother look to the surface as needed.

Tips

Don't worry if the glue or varnish seems to fade the colors: when dry, it will actually make them more vibrant.

If you haven't varnished your project, you can dampen it to re-set the glue and make small changes before varnishing.

You can still decoupage even if you don't have decoupage glue. Any water-based glue will work to glue and cover the patterns. Use an all-purpose varnish to add the finishing touches.

For flower pots and other hollow objects, make sure you add layers of varnish inside as well as outside to protect against dampness!

For metal, glass, or earthenware, you'll need to use a glue specific to the material. Often, you'll have to fire or cook the object once it's dry.

When you're working with any sort of fabric, you need to iron the pattern (don't use steam!). Use parchment paper to protect the design while you iron. Afterward, you can wash it in the washing machine at 40°C (104°F). Make sure you also follow any special washing instructions for the fabric.

Ideas for further exploration

Relief effects with hardened modeling clay
Crackled effects

Project ideas

A storage box made from a simple shoebox (you just need to paint it white beforehand)

A candle holder made from a glass yogurt or jam jar

! - The picture at the top is just an example of one of the many things you can do with decoupage. One brand's website offers a video presentation of this technique.

:laura:

How to Make Pompon Tassels

2009-07-23T09:29:00.000+02:00

This pompon tassel can be made with any material that can be wound and knotted: strips of fabric, plastic, yarn, etc.

Level: Easy
Creation time: 5 mn

Supplies

Materials

Mercerized cotton

Tools

Sewing scissors
Yardstick or ruler

Instructions

Wrap the mercerized cotton around your hand.

When you have the desired thickness for the tassel, cut it.

Cut about 1 m (40 inches) of thread and knot it, forming a loop of about 20 cm (7-7/8 inches).

Pass the loop through the inside of the rolled thread.

Pass the top of the loop through itself to knot the little ball.

Pull the top of the loop to tighten the knot.

Take the 2 hanging thread ends and wrap them tightly around the top of the little ball.

When only 7 or 8 cm (2-3/4 or 3-1/8 inches) remain, make a knot by passing the threads under the last loop of the spiral several times.

Cut the bottom of the ball to form strands and trim to make them even.

Source: "Chronique d'un petit poisson créatif" ("Chronicle of a Creative Little Fish")
Boutique: Le poisson est dans le sac (The Fish is in the Bag)
Sale outlet: Les petites souris (The Little Mice)

:laura:

Tissue Box Cover DIY

2009-07-22T09:18:00.001+02:00

Make a fabric tissue box cover and "dress up" your tissue box to blend in with any decor.

Level: Easy
Creation time: 45 mn

Supplies

Materials

Thick fabric for the outside
Fabric for the lining
Braid (or lace)
Matching thread
Ribbon, cut into 4 pieces long enough to be tied together

Tools

Basic sewing supplies
Sewing machine

Instructions

Use the model below to create a pattern for your tissue box cover. (The little flaps on top allow it to be well covered.)
! - Adjust the measurements to your own box; they're not all the same size.

Cut out 2 pieces of fabric according to this pattern, 1 for the outside and 1 for the lining.
! - Seam allowance of 0.7 cm (1/4 inch) is included.

Sew the braid with small, invisible backstitch by hand on the outside fabric. Make sure it's straight!

Position the outside and lining fabrics on top of each other, right sides together.

Position the ribbons about 6 cm (2-3/8) apart from each other on the 2 longest sides, between the 2 fabrics.

Sew around the outside border of the fabric, leaving an opening on one of the small sides to turn it right side out.

Trim the corners, turn right side out, and iron.

Sew the 4 corners with a slipstitch for about 7 cm (2-3/4 inches) to form the box.

Put over tissue box and tie the ends of the ribbon.

Variation

An old-fashioned tissue box cover, made with grosgrain and lace.

Source: "Le blog d'Alizarine" ("Alizarine's Blog")

:laura:

Origami: An Introduction

2009-07-21T09:07:00.001+02:00

Origami is a traditional Japanese art where the figures often have symbolic meaning stemming from religious origins.

Ideal for temporary decorations, this activity can be done as a family. Children will learn patience and the details that go into simple shapes. Parents will be able to venture into the realm of more complicated figures.

Supplies

Paper: most of the time, a square. Specialy stores sell paper with a basis weight especially for origami. Often this is thinner than regular printer paper (about 20 lb.).
Pen cap, stick, toothpick, etc., to go in the corners
Normally, you don't need either scissors or glue. In a pinch, a utility knife will work for complex figures.

Main principles

The technique consists simply of making folds to crease the paper and then folding them again to form a certain shape. The art of it comes from using only one piece of paper.

The majority of the folds start with easy bases like squares and diamonds and have different names depending the work that's being made (base figure A, base crane figure, etc.)

All the instructions are given by a graph that you only need to learn how to read. Each author has his or her own system of symbols and way ot explaining things. Generally, the legend is explained at the beginning of each book. The majority of the time, you'll find:
- A valley fold is shaped like a V
- A mountain fold is shaped like an upside-down V
- A pleat fold is a mountain fold followed by a valley fold
- An inside reverse fold is a mountain fold that then has one end folded inside itself
- An arrow means to turn the figure upside-down from top to bottom
- Another type of arrow means to turn the figure upside-down from front to back: the right and wrong sides are identified by different colors

The boldest people can also try double sided origami, which consists of folding 2 differently colored or patterned sheets of paper together (or using paper that has different patterns on each side). The difficulty comes in keeping the 2 sheets of paper together throughout the folding process, since they're not folded. The papers don't need to be the same thickness, but they need to be the same exact size.

Instructions

Take the time to understand the logic and the legend behind your graph.

If your paper is a rectangle instead of a square, fold one corner down to the long side of the paper to obtain a triangle. Carefully cut off the extra paper.

When you're folding one corner onto another, take care that they are lined up well. If your fold isn't precise enough, it's better to start over than to have a wrong fold!

Mark your folds well with the trip of your finger (avoid the nail because you could tear the paper) or a folding bone.

Sometimes, when you need to inflate your object to obtain the final shape, you can use a pen cap or just your breath.

Tips

About the paper:
- The simpler the figure, the more important your paper is for adding interest to the piece.
- The smaller the figure, the more important it is for the paper to be thin so that folding will be easier.
- The more folds involved in a project, the smaller the final object will be.

You can use things other than paper:
- Thin fabrics, flexible but with strong hold (plastified or starched fabric, for example)
- Thin felt (you'll iron the folds)
- Foil glued onto thin paper. For more style, you can crumple the foil before gluing it, but be careful not to tear it!
- Chewing gum wrappers
- Patterned wrapping paper
- Paper napkin (remove several layers to make it thinner and easier to work with)

Learn more

Visit these sites for more information:

http://www.origamiwithrachelkatz.com/folding/symbols.htm: basic origami folds and symbols

http://www.origami.com/: great photos and projects

http://www.paperfolding.com/: origami basics, some beginning projects, and links to other sites

:laura:

Scrapbooking Tag Book DIY

2009-07-20T10:03:00.002+02:00

A Tag Book (or Book of Tags, BOT) expands elegantly when needed, thanks to its bellows-inspired folds.

This is a scrapbooking classic for classifying and arranging decorated tags, which you can decorate with little words or in any other way. It's also an original way to store all sorts of small memories (locks of hair, event tickets, etc.).

Supplies

For a Tag Book measuring 14 x 10 cm (5-1/2 x 3-15/16 inches), with tags measuring 7.5 x 12 cm (2-15/16 x 4-3/4 inches)

Materials

Thick paper, various colors
28 x 10 cm (11 x 3-5/16 inches) cardstock

Tools

HB (N° 2) pencil
Cutting board
Utility knife
Ruler
Eraser
Double-sided adhesive

Instructions

Pockets

From matching-colored papers, cut out rectangles measuring 21 x 18 cm (8-1/4 x 7-1/16 inches).
! - Each rectangle forms 2 pockets, so cut enough rectangles to make the number of pockets you want.

On the 18-cm (7-1/16-inch) sides of the rectangles, draw 2 light lines at 8.5 and 9.5 cm (3-3/8 and 3-3/4 inches) from the edges.

Fold one side to meet the line furthest from it.

Do the same with the other side. The 2 sides should overlap by 1 cm (3/8 inch).

Erase the lines.

With the double-sided adhesive, connect the 2 flaps along the whole length of their overlap.

Mark the middle of the 21-cm (8-1/4-inch) sides and fold each pocket in half at that mark, with the adhesive side on the inside.

Put a strip of adhesive on the center of one of the flaps and attach the other one on top of it.

Do the same with the rest of the rectangles.

Attach all pockets on top of each other with adhesive.

Cover

Measure the thickness of the pockets.

Cut the cardstock as you like.
! - The more complicated cutting you do with the cardstock, the more difficult it will be to decorate.

Mark the middle of the cardstock on the long side and, on each side of that mark, measure and mark half the thickness of the pockets.
e.g.: In this BOT, the pockets measure 1 cm (3/8 inch) thick, so the lines fall at 13.5 and 14.5 cm (5-5/16 and 5-11/16 inches) from one of the far sides.

Fold along these 2 marks.

Decorate the outside of the cover with paper and/or embellishments of your choice.

Attach a ribbon centered along the inside length of the cover with adhesive before decorating the interior.
! - You can use another method to close the book, like ribbon passed through grommets, Velcro, etc.

Final touches

Decorate the inside of the cover.
! - This will be almost completely hidden by the pockets.

Attach the pockets with a piece of adhesive centered along the length of the book.

Create and decorate your tags.

Source: "Blog de Cath" ("Cath's Blog")
Find out about her workshops on her blog.

:laura:

Soap Making: An Introduction

2009-07-19T09:14:00.001+02:00

Why make your own soap when there are already all types of soaps available to buy? Quite simply, for the pleasure of imagining unique creations, creating your own take on trends, playing with the materials and indulging your senses…but also because it’s easy!

In fact, there is no need to transform yourself into a chemist to reproduce the saponification process which turns fat into soap with the aid of caustic soda. It’s enough to use base soaps and remodel them: customize them with colors and aromas but also add different materials such as dried flowers, coffee grains, or even seaweed.

Now it’s your turn to see what you can come up with!

You will also find soap recipes in our "Tips & tricks" section.

Supplies

Materials

Pure block of glycerine soap, opaque or transparent according to your desired effect
Food coloring: these are very well tolerated by the skin and you can mix them to create your own shades of colors.
Essential oils, for their smell as well as their cosmetic and medicinal properties
Materials to add to the soap: orange zest, chamomile flowers, coffee grains, etc.

Tools

For melting: a microwave, a traditional oven, or a simple stovetop (for bain-marie)
Plastic or rubber molds: soap molds as well as yogurt pots, ice-cube trays, etc.
Knife, for cutting soap

Instructions

Cut the glycerine soap into pieces.
Melt the glycerine in microwave. You can also use an oven or a bain-marie, but they're less efficient.
! - Never let it boil!
Perfume it with some drops of essential oils.
Color it with some food coloring. Keep adding it gradually until you achieve the desired shade. You can also combine several colors, mixing them gradually to create nuances of color.
If you want to add things to the inside:
- Pour a layer of the melted glycerine into the mold.
  ! - If you want to see your decorations, use transparent (not opaque) glycerine!
- Add your decorations, keeping in mind that the bottom of the mold is the front of the soap (when removing it from the mold, the base will correspond to the top of the soap).
- Let cool for about 10 minutes.
- Add another layer of glycerine.
If you want to create layers of different colors, proceed as explained above: pour in the first layer, leave it to cool for about 10 minutes, then add another layer, and so on.
In all cases, let soap dry (not in the refrigerator!) for a whole day or even a week, according to the composition and thickness of the soap.
Remove soap from mold by applying light pressure to the base. To take out a soap poured into a glass mold, heat it for a few minutes in a bain-marie until the soap in contact with the sides starts to melt.
Feel free to re-work your soap:
- You can cut it into slices.
- You can glue on decorations using melted glycerine to stick them to the soap and then cover them with a fine layer of glycerine.

Translation: Emma-Jane

:laura:

Felt Cupcake DIY

2009-07-18T09:06:00.002+02:00

These felt cupcakes are too cute to eat! They’re great for children or the young at heart. Made from felt according to the instructions of Tim at Fantastic Toys, these cuddly cupcakes are the perfect way to add some fat-free fun to your life. There’s even a downloadable invitation to invite your friends to a cupcake-making party!

Supplies

Materials

Felt, 2 colors (1 for base, 1 for cake)
Multi-purpose glue
Matching thread
Stuffing
Embroidery floss
Paper (to print pattern on)
Ribbon or other decorations (optional)

Tools

Needle
Pins
Scissors
Computer printer (optional)

Instructions

Download and print the cupcake pattern.

Cut out pattern in felt:
- 1 time cup base
- 2 times cake
- 1 time baking cup
  NB: Make sure to cut this on the fold of your felt!

Use a backstitch to sew the 2 cake pieces together, right sides together, leaving flat bottom side open.

Turn right side out.

Gather opening of cake piece with a gathering stitch.

Stuff cake piece with stuffing.

Pull gathering stitch closed and knot securely.

Sew baking cup ends together, forming a circle.

Pin and sew cup base to baking cup.

Pin and sew baking cup to cake.

Glue on eyes and embroider mouth.

Decorate cupcake as desired.

Source: Fantastic Toys

:laura:

Travel Checkers

2009-07-17T09:19:00.000+02:00

Going on vacation? Pack this travel checkers game in your suitcase. It's easy to make and easy to store, too!

Level: Easy
Creation time: 3h

Supplies

Materials

1 square of cotton fabric, 36 cm (14-3/16 inches) each side
1 square of cotton fabric, 36 cm (14-3/16 inches) each side, for the lining
1 strip of fabric measuring 144 x 4 cm (56-11/16 x 1-9/16 inches), from the same fabric as the lining
White embroidery thread (and black if you want to embroider black squares)
White and black Fimo clay
Matching sewing thread
Aluminum foil

Tools

Basic sewing supplies
Oven
Fabric pencil
Embroidery needle
Ruler
Cookie cutter (or a coin) to cut out the checkers from the Fimo clay
Sewing machine (optional)

Instructions

Game board

With a fabric pencil, draw a margin of 3 cm (1-3/16 inches) around the main fabric. This will give you with a 30-cm (11-7/8 inches) square.

Draw horizontal and vertical lines every 3 cm (1-3/16 inches) within this square.

Stitch over these lines with a couching stitch. This will give you 100 squares.

Embroider every other square as you wish: here, geometrical motifs inspired by Bogolan, a Malian fabric-dyeing method, are used.

From the lining fabric, cut out 2 strips measuring 36 x 4 cm (14-3/16 x 1-9/16 inches) and 2 strips measuring 35 x 4 cm (13-3/4 x 1-9/16 inches).

Make a double fold in the strips, bringing each end to meet in the center. Flatten the folds with an iron.

Sew the fabric strips around the game board and its lining, joining them together.

Checkers

With a cookie cutter, cut 20 white and 20 black checkers from Fimo clay.

Cook them in the oven at 140°C (285°F) for 30 minutes and check to make sure they're thoroughly cooked.
NB: If they're a little thick, cook them longer.

Let them cool.

Make a carrying case for the game board and the checkers.

Tips

Instead of Fimo clay, use colored pebbles, seeds, or small shells as checkers.

To make the game board more quickly, draw the squares on 3D fabric with a felt-tip pen.

Source: "Les tutos de Pamina" ("Pamina's Tutorials")

:laura:

Circus Mobile DIY

2009-07-16T09:13:00.000+02:00

This soft hanging circus mobile will amuse babies in the car or in the house. It’s a wonderful way to add some color and whimsy to your baby’s life.

Level: Intermediate
Creation time: 1 day

Supplies

Materials

For the frame and base

Wire hanger with a flexible hook
Cotton fabric (enough to cover the hanger on both sides)
2 strips of cotton fabric, 18 cm (7 inches) high
NB: The length should be equal to the bottom edge of the hanger.
Matching braid

For the pendants

Scraps of felt, cloth, yarn, etc.
Wadding
Ribbon
Small beads, sequins to glue, embroidery floss, or fabric paint (for eyes and mouths)
String or thick cord
NB: Dont use yarn; it breaks too easily.
Templates traced from coloring books or taken from "Nature Coloring Pages"
Optional:
- Synthetic fur
- Whimsical beads
- Large wooden beads
- Other decorations

Tools

Basic sewing supplies
Iron
Large carpet needle or other strong needle

Instructions

Frame

Fold the cotton fabric in half, right sides together.
Position the hanger on top of the cotton fabric.
Trace the outlines of the hanger, remove it, and cut out the shapes 0.5 cm (3/16 inch) outside of your tracing lines.

Sew along the top, right sides together.
Turn the fabric right side out.
Insert the hanger to maker sure it fits properly.

Iron the fabric.

Base

Fold 1 strip of cotton fabric in half lengthwise. Each half should measure 9 cm (3-1/2 inches) high.
Iron it.
Fold it, accordion-style, on itself so that you form petals.
Cut the bottom end of your folded fabric so that it’s rounded.
Unfold it, all except the lengthwise fold.

Sew the rounded sides together, right sides together.

Turn right side out.
Do the same thing with the 2nd fabric strip.
Sew the strips onto the bottom of the hanger fabric, just above the base, front and behind, with a zigzag stitch. This creates a circus tent.

Pendants

For all

Trace the template on the fabric or felt and cut it out.

Fish

Sew around the border, right sides together, leaving an opening.
Turn it right side out.
Stuff it with wadding and close it with a few hidden stitches.
Sew a bead on each side of the head for the eyes.

Little Donkey

NB: Make donkey with felt.

Sew around the border, right sides together, leaving the stomach open.
Turn it right side out.
Sew the “saddle” by hand, fraying the sides a little.

Sew a bead to each side of the head for the eyes.
Make the tail with 4 strands of yarn joined together.
- Make a knot at the end of the 4 strands.
- Sew the knot to the back of the donkey.
Stuff it with wadding and close it with a few hidden stitches.
Make reins from scraps of leather lace, thick yarn, raffia, cord, thick string, etc.

Piece of Candy

Fill a piece of stocking with rice and sew it shut.
Put the rice sachet between the 2 pieces of fabric for the piece of candy.
Sew the 2 pieces of fabric together.
Tie the ends of the piece of candy with ribbon.

Clown

Trace the template and cut it out 2 times in folded fabric.
NB: Line up the center of the clown with the fold in the fabric.
Make the head with a piece of white fabric.
Decorate the head with embroidery, beads, fabric paint, fake fur (for the hair), etc.
Sew the head onto the body.
Make the pointed hat with a cone cut out of a scrap of felt.
NB: Don’t choose a fabric that’s too flimsy.
Sew the hat to the head.
Cut a bow tie from a thick fabric (like felt) and sew it on at the neck.

Strings

Hang the pieces with the help of a large carpet needle :
- Make a knot at the end of the string.
- Pull it through the piece.
- Put a large wooden bead on the string (optional).
- Tack the unknotted end of the string between the 2 base strips of fabric, just to fix it in place.
  NB: Use your eye to judge the space between each hanging pendant.

Secure the hanger in place by sewing along each side of the hook and hiding your stitching with a ribbon.

Sew braid along the right side of the top of the base strips of fabric, making sure your stitching includes the string ends inside.
NB: For more security, make a knot in the string.

Finish by sewing along the base of the hanger so that nothing will slide inside.
NB: A simple backstitch will suffice. The top of all elements will be hidden securely inside.

Source: "Les Tutos de Pamina" ("Pamina's Tutorials")

:laura:

Travel Tic Tac Toe

2009-07-15T09:09:00.000+02:00

Make a travel tic tac toe game from fabric and shrink plastic that will keep children entertained for a long time in the car, at the beach, at a friend's house, etc. Children can help make it, too!

Level: Easy
Creation time: 3h

Supplies

Materials

2 squares of cotton fabric, 35 cm (13-3/4 inches) each side (for the top and lining)
4 strips of fabric, 5 x 38 cm (2 x 15 inches)
Bright embroidery floss
Shrink plastic
Aluminum foil

Tools

Basic sewing supplies
Crayon
Oven
Embroidery needle

Instructions

Cut out these forms in the shrink plastic: 5 "X" shapes that are 10 cm (3-15/16 inches) long and 5 circles that are 10 cm (3-15/16 inches) in diameter.
NB: The shrink plastic shrinks to 7 times smaller when it cooks.

Color the shapes with a crayon.

Put them in an oven (preheated to 150°C/300°F) for 5 to 8 minutes, keeping an eye on the cooking.

Flatten the shapes once they're out of the oven, while they're still flexible.

Embroider 6 squares measuring 9.5 cm (3-3/4 inches) each side in a couching stitch, on the top of the game.

Sew the 4 fabric strips to border the game board, starting at the wrong side of the lining and sewing through to the right side of the top fabric, making sure to sew through both layers of fabric.

Sew a little drawstring bag to hold the pieces.

Source: "Les tutos de Pamina" ("Pamina's Tutorials")

:laura:

Bastille Day

2009-07-14T09:45:00.001+02:00

Since I gave a little presentation for the 4th of July, I figured one would be appropriate for Bastille Day, since Blue Marguerite is French, after all. :-)

Bastille Day commemorates the storming of the Bastille prison on July 14, 1789, which is seen as the start of the modern nation of France. The actions led to the abolishing of feudalism in France and eventually to the creation of a French Constitution.

The French national anthem, "La Marseillaise", was written in 1792 by Claude Joseph Rouget de Lisle as a war song and was dedicated to a French Marshal. It was given its name when volunteers from Marseille (in southern France) sang it as they arrived in Paris.

Ladies and gentlemen, the "Marseillaise":

(For an English translation, click here.)

And, of course, more fireworks: ;-)

Cheers!

:laura:

Card Game Case DIY

2009-07-13T09:06:00.000+02:00

Here is a case for holding card games. This felt model's creator, Pamina, guarantees that it's super simple to make.

Level: Easy (can be made by the whole family)
Creation time: 2h

Supplies

Materials

31 x 11 cm (12-1/4 x 4-5/16 inches) grey felt
Matching sewing thread
Orange embroidery floss
Orange button

Tools

Sewing needle
Embroidery needle
Scissors

Instructions

Cut a shape in one end of the felt (here, a clover).

Fold the other end of the felt up to the base of the shape.

Trace a line along the edges and sew them with a blanket stitch with colored embroidery floss.

Sew the button on the center of the front of the case.

Source: "Les tutos de Pamina" ("Pamina's Tutorials")

:laura:

Explosion Box DIY

2009-07-12T09:01:00.000+02:00

An explosion box is used for hiding a gift or gluing in photos. It's also an original idea for a wedding or birth announcement.

Supplies

Materials

77 x 77 cm (30-5/16 x 30-5/16 inches) thick paper (like cardstock)
Double-sided tape

Tools

Cutting board
Utility knife
Pencil
Ruler

Instructions

Box

From the paper, cut 3 pieces measuring:
- 30 x 30 cm (11-13/16 x 11-13/16 inches)
- 29 x 29 cm (11-7/16 x 11-7/16 inches)
- 17 x 17 cm (6-11/16 x 6-11/16 inches)

On the 30 x 30 cm (11-13/16 x 11-13/16 inches) piece, at 10 cm (3-15/16 inches) from each corner, make a 10-cm (3-15/16-inch) cut.

Fold perpendicular to each cut to mark the place, then unfold it.

On the 29 x 29 cm (11-7/16 x 11-7/16 inches) piece, draw a square at each corner measuring 10 x 10 cm (3-15/16 x 3-15/16 inches).

Cut them out. This will leave you with a cross.

Fold each tip of the cross in over the center square, marking the spot for the fold.

Glue the cross on the bottom of the box.

Lid

Cut a 16.3-cm (6-7/16-inch) square.

Fold in each edge by 3 cm (1-3/16 inches) to mark the spot.

Make a cut of 3 cm (1-3/16 inches) at each corner (bold lines on the template).

Fold these cut tabs toward the inside.

Tape them in place.
Refold the sides of the lid.
Tape them in place.

Refold the sides of the box that will be held closed by the lid.

Tips

If you want to glue in photos, glue them on the cross before gluing the cross to the bottom of the box.

To make the box more quickly, use paper with patterns on both sides so that you won't have to line the inside.

Source: "Blog de Cath" ("Cath's Blog")

:laura:

Scrapbooking Chipboards

2009-07-11T09:26:00.000+02:00

Chipboards are decorations used to put a design in relief and add volume to a scrapbooking page.

They're available in many stores, but the choice of shape, size, and color is limited. You can also make them, designing them with paint, ink, chalk, stickers, stamps, etc. and can give them glazed effect by using gloss or hot embossing.

Here, Cath explains how to make your own chipboards with a shiny finish.

Supplies

Materials

Paper appropriate to your project (that can pass through a computer printer)
Thin piece of cardboard (just thicker than computer paper)
Ultra thick embossing powder
Colorless embossing ink (preferebly very sticky and slow-drying)
Glue

Tools

Paint burner
(or heat gun, a tool specific to hot embossing)
Sheet of scrap paper
Computer printer
Utility knife or scissors

Instructions

Print your letters onto a sheet of paper.

Glue this sheet onto the cardboard.

Cut out each letter.
NB: Consider varying the shape around each letter for a more interesting effect.

Ink the edges of the chipboards to emphasize the relief effect.

Stamp your chipboards with embossing ink.

Sprinkle the chipboards with embossing powder.

Pour the extra powder onto a sheet of scrap paper. Fold the scrap paper in the shape of a funnel and return the leftover powder to its original container.

Heat the powder with the paint burner by placing the paint burner about 15 cm (6 inches) above the paper.
NB: Keep the paint burner away from children.

When the powder melts and the design looks shiny, stop heating it.

Tips

If bubbles form, reheat the chipboards to eliminate them.

For a thicker and shinier finish, repeat the ink, powder, and heat steps.

If you want to attach your chipboards with anything other than an adhesive, pierce them before embossing them.

To give a "worn" aspect to the chipboards, rub their edges with sandpaper.

Source: "Blog de Cath" ("Cath's Blog")

:laura:

Iris Folding

2009-07-10T09:15:00.000+02:00

Iris folding is a paper folding technique. It's easy to do and is used often in scrapbooking and cardmaking. Derived from patchwork, iris folding consists of placing strips of paper over each other, following a pattern, to put a design into relief. The name comes from a camera shutter (the iris) and the pattern is folded along marks drawn by hand or pre-printed.

Cath explains this technique as done with a pre-printed template. All of the assembly is done on the back of the piece.

Supplies

Materials

Sheet of cardstock bigger than the template below
3 matching sheets of paper measuring 15 x 15 cm (6 x 6 inches)

Tools

Scissors
Repositionable tape
Sheet of scrap paper

Instructions

Preparation

Download and print the template at the desired size.

Cut strips of paper 3.5 cm (1-3/8 inch) wide from the matching sheets of paper.

Fold them in half lengthwise and decide which color will be A, B, and C.

Carefully cut out the template.

Trace the outline of the template on the back of the cardstock.

Cut out the cardstock along the outline, discarding the center portion.

Tape the template onto the sheet of scrap paper.

Position it on top of the cut-out cardstock, lining up the edges carefully.

Fix it in place with 2 small pieces of tape.

Glue the strips

Put the first strip on the template, placing the folded side toward the center of the design and making sure all sides except the folded one overlap onto the cardstock.

Tape each end in place.

Do this for the rest of the strips, following the numbers on the template and the color code you established, until you reach the center of the iris.

Once all of the strips are in place, place a piece of paper (either matte or glossy) in the center.

Remove the tape that's holding the cardstock in place.

Turn it over.

Tip

To limit the thickness of your iris folding (a serious consideration with some scrapbook albums), don't fold your strips of paper. Cut them thin and straight.
NB: A thinner design means you'll lose some of the depth of your relief effect.

Source: "Blog de Cath" ("Cath's Blog")

:laura:

Hot Embossing

2009-07-09T09:13:00.001+02:00

Hot embossing - not to be confused with dry embossing, which is done with a stylus - is a technique that puts letters or designs into relief. It enriches any stamping technique and gives a brilliant effect to the design.

Supplies

Materials

Slow-drying ink
Stamp
Clear or colored embossing powder
Paper of your choice
Scrap paper

Tools

Paint burner
(or a heat gun, a tool specific to hot embossing)
Stamp

Instructions

Apply the ink to the stamp.

Stamp the paper.

Sprinkle embossing powder onto the stamped design.
NB: The inked design should be completely covered.

Pour the excess powder onto scrap paper. Fold the scrap paper like a funnel and pour the leftover powder back into the original container.

Heat the powder with the paint burner by placing it about 15 cm (6 inches) above the paper.
NB: Keep the paint burner away from children.

When the powder has melted and the design is shiny, stop heating it.

Tips

To heat the powder, you can also use a toaster and place the paper on top of it.
NB: Don't put the paper inside the toaster.

If you use a paint burner, place the paper on a piece of wood to proect your work area from the heat.

Source: "Blog de Cath" ("Cath's Blog")

:laura:

Scrapbooking Festoons

2009-07-08T09:35:00.004+02:00

Festoons were originally suspended garlands that served as decoration. In scrapbooking, to festoon something became to create borders by cutting the background into shapes.

Here, Cath shares the many techniques she uses. Varying your materials allows you to make small or large patterns and to give a "handmade" look to your festoons.

Ready-to-use paper

This method is the quickest because you glue the forms directly to the page. Small and large models of festoons are available from many brands, although color choice is limited by what the brand offers.

Instructions

Apply to background.

Stencils

These allow you to copy the shape for your festoon.

Supplies

Scissors
Stencil

Instructions

Place stencil on background.

Cut out around the stencil with scissors.

Tip

Trace around the stencil with a pencil, remove the stencil, and cut out the shape. This small additional step prevents accidental cuttings.

Festoons with pinking shears

Supplies

Paper pencil
Ruler (or compass)
Pinking shears

Instructions

Use the ruler or compass to draw a line.

Cut along it with the pinking shears.

Festoons with rulers

This method gives a more or less "handmade" aspect to your festoon

Instructions

Position the ruler on top of your paper: the side of the ruler that will make the festoon should be along the border side of the paper.

Tear the background paper, following the ruler.

Templates to cut various shapes

Supplies

Paper pencil
Utility knife
Template

Instructions

Position the template on the background.

Trace the outline.

Cut, following the drawing.

Special festoon blade

These are available for paper cutters and give a clean-cut edge.

Instructions

Position your paper firmly against the bottom of the paper cutter so that the cut will be at a right angle.

Move the blade along its track, pushing with regular firmness, and the cut's made!

Source: "Le blog de Cath" ("Cath's Blog")

:laura:

Super Simple Apron DIY

2009-07-07T09:25:00.000+02:00

Simple to make and very useful, this super simple apron will keep clothes clean while doing chores and making projects of any sort. Thanks to "Miss Freddie" for sharing this tutorial!

Supplies

Materials

Fabric rectangle, 43 x 53 cm (16-15/16 x 20-7/8 inches)
Fabric strip, 5 cm (2 inches) wide and long enough to circle waist and then tie in a bow
Bias tape, 139 cm (54-3/4 inches)
Embellishments (optional)

Tools

Basic sewing supplies
Iron

Instructions

Sew bias tape to fabric rectangle on both sides and bottom.
NB: Bottom corners can be rounded, if desired, before this step.

Fold fabric strip in half lengthwise. Each half will measure 2.5 cm (1 inch).
Fold under the outside edge of each half by 0.5 cm (3/16 inch).

Make the same fold at each end of the strip.

Iron the fabric strip to mark the folds.

Hem along the 3 open sides of the strip.
Center the strip on the side of the rectangle without bias tape.

Sew in place.

Decorate as desired.

Source: "Miss Freddie"

:laura:

"Lily of the Valley" Scarf DIY

2009-07-06T09:07:00.000+02:00

This soft scarf, worked with an open stitch pattern that brings to mind the delicacy of a lily of the valley, makes a great lightweight addition to a winter coat.

Level: Advanced
Creation time: 1/2 day

Supplies

Materials

2 skeins yarn (like Bamboulène du Cheval Blanc, 50% bamboo, 50% wool)
NB: 50 gr (2 oz.) yields about 110 m (361 ft)

Tools

Knitting needles, 4.5 mm (U.S. size 7)
Scissors
Yarn needle

Instructions

Special terms

Dim IG: slip 2 sts knit-wise on the right needle, then pick those 2 sts with the left needle from left to right and knit them together

Base

CO 40 sts.

Border

Row 1 and 3: Purl.

Row 2: K3, * YO, K2tog, 1 dim IG, K2tog, K2, YO, K1 *. Repeat from * to *, K2.

Row 4: K2, * YO, K2, 1 dim IG, K2tog, K2, YO, K1 *. Repeat from * to *, K3.

Scarf

Chart

O: YO
X: P2tog

K2 tog, YO, chart 2 times, YO, SSK.

Purl all even rows.

Work until the end of 1 skein. BO.

Do the same with your 2nd skein of yarn.

Sew BO ends together.

Source: "Les fils de Béa" ("Béa's Yarns")
Translation: Béa63

:laura:

Feather and Fan Scarf DIY

2009-07-05T09:02:00.000+02:00

This scarf is knitted in the wavy "feather and fan" stitch. With its delicate dentelle effect, it can be worn all year long.

Level: Intermediate
Creation time: varies according to length

Supplies

Materials

Yarn

Tools

Knitting needles (size based on yarn weight)
Scissors

Instructions

Stitch used: Feather and Fan

CO 38 sts.

Row 1: knit.

Row 2: purl.

Row 3: K1, (K2tog) x 3, (K, YO) x 6, (K2tog) x 6, (K1, YO) x 6, (K2tog) x 3, K1.

Row 4: purl.

Repeat rows 1-4 until scarf reaches desired length.

Bind off.

Tips

Use 4.0 mm (U.S. size 6) needles for a softer knit.

To increase the dentelle effect, use thick knitting needles with very thin yarn.

Source: "L'ïle aux fils" ("The Isle of Yarns")
Translation: Béa63

:laura:

Happy 4th of July!

2009-07-04T09:51:00.002+02:00

Today is the day Americans celebrate their independence and national identity. (I beg you to excuse me this digression, as I am an American.) On July 4, 1776, the 2nd Continental Congress finalized the text of the Declaration of Independence in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. It made official the war with Britain that had already begun and posed the Americans as a new nation declaring their independence from their colonial sovereign.

233 years later, it's important to remember why we celebrate. This video features several different people reading the text of the Declaration of Independence:

During the War of 1812, another war against Britain, Francis Scott Key, imprisoned by the British and watching the Americans fight from afar, wrote the text of a poem that would officially become the American national anthem in 1931. Here, 2 of the 4 stanzas are performed by the Mormon Tabernacle Choir:

(Lyrics here.)

And, for those Americans like me who are living overseas and won't get to participate in any traditional festivities, some fireworks:

Cheers!

:laura:

Alpaca Scarf DIY

2009-07-03T10:44:00.001+02:00

This alpaca scarf is soft and warm, stitched using openwork in geometric patterns.

Level: Advanced
Creation time: Varies according to scarf length

Supplies

Materials

Alpaca yarn

Tools

Knitting needles, 3.25 mm (U.S. size 3)
Scissors

Instructions

CO a multiple of 10 plus 4 sts.

Work 4 rows in garter stitch.

Row 1 : K2, * K2, K2tog, YO, K2, YO, SSK, K2 *. Repeat from * to * to 2 sts before end, K2.
Row 2 and all even rows: K2, purl to 2 sts before end, K2.
Row 3: K2, * K1, K2tog, YO, K4, YO, SSK, K1 *. Repeat from * to * to 2 sts before end, K2.
Row 5: K2, * K2tog, YO, K6, YO, SSK *. Repeat from * to * to 2 sts before end, K2.
Row 7: K2, * K1, K2tog, YO, K4, YO, SSK, K1 *. Repeat from * to * to 2 sts before end, K2.
Row 9: K2, * K2, K2tog, YO, K2, YO, SSK, K2 *. Repeat from * to * to 2 sts before end, K2.
Repeat above rows until desired length is reached.
Work 4 rows in garter stitch.
Bind off.

Source: "L'ïle aux fils" ("The Isle of Yarns")
Translation: Béa63

:laura:

Woolen Slippers DIY

2009-07-02T09:13:00.002+02:00

For those thinking ahead with longing to cooler months... :-)

These woolen slippers with fleece-lined soles are sure to keep your feet warm and toasty! Easily customizable with embellishments, they're perfect for curling up with a good book and a cup of tea on a cold winter's night.

Supplies

Materials

Woolen fabric (such as an old blanket) for the uppers
Fleece fabric for the soles
Fabric scraps for the binding, 3 cm (1-3/16 inch) wide and long enough to go around the slipper opening

Tools

Basic sewing supplies
Sewing machine
Paper for pattern
Pencil
Clothes iron

Instructions

Draw pattern on paper, leaving 1 cm (3/8 inch) for seams.

Cut 1 sole piece and 1 of each upper piece from the woolen fabric.
Cut 1 sole piece from the fleece.

Pin the 2 sole layers together and baste around the edges.

Sew the 2 upper pieces together along the top border, 1 cm (3/8 inch) from the edge.

Trim any excess fabric and iron along seam.
Sew heel edges together, 1 cm (3/8 inch) from the edge.

Trim any excess fabric and iron along seam.
Pin slipper top to sole, right sides together, and sew 1 cm (3/8 inch) from edge.
NB: Fleece inner should be on the outside.

Trim any excess fabric.
Turn slipper right side out.

Iron the seams.
Trim slipper opening to desired size, making sure your feet fit inside.

Cut 2 strips of scrap fabric along the bias, 3 cm (1-3/16 inches) or wider.
Fold these strips in half lengthwise and iron the fold.
Open the fold, fold one edge toward the center, and iron the fold.

Pin unfolded edge of the binding to the outside of the slipper and sew around it, 5 mm (1/16 inch) from the edge.

Trim any excess fabric.

Fold the binding over the edge and pin in place on the inside of the slipper.

Sew into place with a slip stitch, folding the edge under itself for a clean look.

Repeat with the second slipper, reversing the pattern to make it fit your other foot.

Source: Nikki-Shell

:laura:

All About Salt Dough

2009-07-01T09:19:00.000+02:00

Easy to work with and inexpensive, salt dough gives you complete creative freedom and the opportunity to do some trials without worrying that you'll have to throw out your project if it doesn’t reach your high expectations. You can create anything from traditional figurines and baskets to more innovative and trendy decorative items for your home.

This page explains how to make and work with salt dough.

Supplies

Flour, salt, and water for the dough
Aluminum foil, parchment paper, and an oven-safe platter for baking
For decoration:
- Paints of your choice:
  - Cold enamel paint gives a glossy, smooth look
  - Watercolor paints give pastel tones
  - Acrylic paint (glossy, matte, or pearly) gives rich tones
  - Gouache (poster paint) can be used, but it lacks luminosity and may make the salt dough mushy
- Paintbrushes of varying sizes, according to the desired level of detail
- Varnish of your choice:
  - Marine varnish (the least expensive)
  - Quality poster varnish
  - Crystal varnish (doesn’t yellow)
  - Spray varnish (very practical)

Instructions

Mix 2 parts water with 1 part salt.
Gradually add 1 cup cold water.
Mix and then knead the mixture for at least 5 minutes. The dough should be soft but not sticky, a little stretchy but not dry. If dough is too sticky or watery, add more flour. Conversely, if dough is too dry, add more water.
Form a ball to keep the dough from drying out too quickly.
Mold your dough. Some tips:
- To attach 2 pieces of dough, use some water.
- Have materials on hand to help you with modeling: knives, forks, garlic press, rolling pin, cutters, cocktail sticks, etc. You can even use old lace for making patterns!
- Aluminum foil, which can be removed after baking, can be used to give some volume or a particular shape to an object.
- If you want to hang your finished projects, insert a hook or a pre-shaped wire in the wet dough.
Dry (not bake!) your dough.
- In the oven:
  - Place your creations on aluminum foil or parchment paper on top of a baking tray. A fan-assisted or convection oven is ideal for this task; its temperature should be turned down low to thermostat 1 or 2 (maximum 100°C/212°F to avoid cracking).
  - Turn over the dough objects when they are half dried.
  - The “baking” time depends on the thickness of the objects: you should allow between 2 and 6 hours. To check if the object is cooked, tap it with a metal knife. If it doesn't sound hollow, it needs to stay in the oven longer. Another tip: try to stick a needle in the back of the object. If it doesn’t go in, then your object is ready!
- Leave your creation to dry for a few days in the sun, in front of a radiator, or on a mantelpiece.

Decoration
- Sand your creations with sandpaper to remove small defaults.
- Paint your object. Start by painting the larger areas to get an overall idea of what the finished object will look like, because then you will be able to choose the colors for the details more easily. You can make several coats of paint to achieve different shades, but you should leave at least an hour between each coat.
- Varnish your object from back to front. 3 coats are advised for protection against humidity. Regular re-varnishing is also recommended.

Tips

Consider using food to give color to your dough: add cinnamon, coffee, or even pepper.

About the dough:
- For a finer dough, add glycerine (1/2 tablespoon).
- For a more solid dough, add wallpaper paste (1 tablespoon mixed in with the flour).
- You can also use whole what flour, which gives the dough a darker, more rustic appearance and also makes it easier to work with.
- The smoother and whiter the flour, and the finer the salt, the more precise your modeling will be. For an even finer salt, blend it in a coffee grinder or in a mixer until it resembles confectioner's sugar!
- You can also buy ready-made salt dough. You only need to add water and let it sit. It has the advantage of being finer and whiter, as well as cooking more quickly.

On the Internet

Learn how to make realistic-looking leaves, how to model roses, how to create knots, how to make lace effects, or how to make a basket.

Learn how to make cute miniature figurines with step-by-step illustrations: possibilities include a Goose , a Witch, or French cartoon characters Bécassine and Clémentine.
Learn how to make roses.
Some examples of sculpture in the round (salt dough developed in three dimensions).

Photo Source: "La Bretagne en pâte à sel (Brittany in Salt Dough)" by Brigitte Casagranda, published by Editions Ouest-France.
Photography: Xavier Scheinkmann
Translation: Emma-Jane

:laura:

Doudou Bonheur Results

2009-06-30T14:40:00.001+02:00

Hey all!

The 1st annual Doudou Bonheur campaign ended today. Here are the 2 little fellas I sent in:

The one on the left looks much better now that he has a face, and the one on the right, well, he frankly looks more like an alien than a bunny rabbit. Here's hoping that he goes to a budding Star Wars fan. ;-)

Cheers!

:laura:

All About Fimo Clay: Basic Techniques

2009-06-30T09:16:00.000+02:00

Polymer clay, also called Fimo clay, is the ideal tool for creating all sorts of small decorative items such as figurines, accents for adding to magnets or brooches, beads for making different types of necklaces, or even for making designs to glue onto a frame.

With Fimo clay, everything is possible with a little creativity!

Supplies

Materials

Fimo clay or another brand of polymer clay
Grease-proof paper, aluminium foil, or parchment paper
For decoration: sandpaper, varnish specifically for clay, acrylic paints, etc.

Tools

Rolling pin or pasta machine
Household oven, preferably electric
Wooden work surface
NB: Avoid plastic surfaces because the clay can damage it and metal surfaces because the clay can stick to it.
Latex gloves for smoothing finger marks from the clay and protecting the skin.

Instructions

Make the model

Soften the clay:
- Knead it with your hands for a few minutes OR
- Add a softener (this will lighten the base color a little) OR
- Run the clay through a pasta machine that's reserved for this purpose.
Mix different colors of clay to obtain the desired color. Think of white as a lightener for your colors!
Model the clay into desired shape.
NB: Use whatever's on hand to get the shape, size, and thickness you want: pliers, utility knife, needle, rolling pin, garlic press, knife, nails, etc.
Decorate your creations (e.g. use beads you've created from clay or cane the clay, a process where you cut across a roll of different-colored clays to create geometric patterns).

Bake the clay

Preheat oven to 130°C (266°F), i.e. thermostat 4 maximum.

Place items for baking in oven on a sheet of parchment paper or aluminum foil so they don't come into direct contact with the oven.
Bake 10 to 30 minutes, according to the thickness of the clay.
If needed, reshape the form before the clay's hot enough to burn you.
Let objects cool completely before sanding, varnishing, or painting them.

Decoration

Sanding: Sand under water to avoid dust. Use moist sandpaper to smooth your object and to get rid of finger marks.
Varnishing: Use a varnish made especially for polymer clay (matte or gloss), or a cheaper alternative is to use a product for polishing wooden floors. After varnishing, re-bake objects in oven for about 10 minutes to maintain shine.
Painting: Acrylic paint is the most suitable.
Gluing: After the object has cooled down from reheating (e.g. with varnish), you can add clasps, key rings, broaches etc. with super glue.

Translation: Emma-Jane

:laura:

All About Fimo (Polymer) Clay

2009-06-29T09:11:00.000+02:00

Did you used to love modeling clay? Kneading it, mixing colors, and creating imaginary characters? If so, you’ll love polymer clay, commonly known as Fimo clay!

Often used in the film industry for making on-screen characters, Fimo has invaded homes both through arts and crafts and through other diverse forms, such as jewelry (beads, rings, pendants), key rings, and decorative items of every kind.

Polymer clay is ideal for making small objects because it become very hard after baking. It's resistant to water and can be sculpted, sanded, painted, polished, or even varnished.

Here are some general guidelines about polymer clay.

Introduction to polymer clay

Polymer clay is also known generically as polyclay or Fimo clay, but several brands exist: Sculpey, Cernit, GemColor, and Creall-Therm.

Typically, it comes in small loaves, in a large range of colors that can be molded together to give sequined, marbled or metallic effects or to create new colors.
- It is considered to be “soft” when it is very malleable from the beginning and as “classic” when it requires some work to soften it up before use.
- Generally, a 58-g (2-oz.) loaf will cost around 2 euros (2.80 USD).

Once opened, it stores for a long time, as long as it is wrapped in its original paper and then covered in aluminium foil or plastic wrap and stored in a cool place in an airtight container.
To begin, we recommend buying three loaves in the primary colors, which you can mix to make all sorts of colors.

Safety Guidelines

Polymer clay contains PVC (polyvinyl chloride) and plasticizers that make it toxic and call for certain precautions:

Avoid contact with mouth or eyes.
Wash your hands carefully after use.
Polymer clay is not suitable for children under 7.
Use tools and utensils strictly dedicated to this use.
Avoid cooking the clay at a very high temperature for a long time. This can burn your creations as well as release toxic gases. The manufacturers' instructions should always be followed.

Translation: Emma-Jane

:laura:

All About Rolled Candles

2009-06-28T11:04:00.000+02:00

Rolled candles are made with sheets of beeswax. Making them is simple and has surprisingly good results. Accessible even to children, these pretty candles have an incomparable scent.

Supplies

Sheets of beeswax
Wick
Hair dryer
Utility knife

Instructions

Soften the sheet of beeswax with a hair dryer until it is flexible.

Put a candle wick along the length of the sheet. The wick must extend beyond the wax by about 2 cm (3/4 inch).

Push lightly along the length of the wick to press it into the wax. The wick doesn't need to be stiffened beforehand.

Roll the beeswax sheet tightly and make sure that the wick is firmly in place.

Use your thumb to blend in the visible edge of the beeswax sheet.

Coat the tip of the wick with a little beeswax to stiffen it.

:laura:

All About Molded Candles

2009-06-27T08:58:00.000+02:00

Anyone can make molded candles. You don't need many supplies, but whatever you use won't be reusable for any other purpose. Make sure you don't choose your new pots!

For an introduction to candle making, go to the tutorial on how to make candles.

Supplies

Materials

Stearin
Paraffin
Stiffened wick
Candle dye
Modeling clay

Tools

Wick needle or stick of wood
Mold
Wax thermometer

Instructions

Place the stiffened wick in the mold, leaving about 5 cm (2 inches) of wick showing beyond the mold.

Stretch the wick well and hold it in place at the other end of the mold with a small stick or, ideally, with a wick needle.

Carefully seal the bottom of the mold, all around the wick, with the modeling clay.

Melt the stearin and slowly add the colorant. Mix it well so that the mixture is homogeneous.

Add the paraffin. The proportion of paraffin to stearin should be 90% to 10%.

When the wax reaches 93°C (200°F), pour it into the mold, leaving a space of 1 cm (3/8 inch) on the edge. Dispel any air bubbles by tapping on the mold after a few minutes.

Let the wax cool at least an hour before removing it from the mold.

Tips

Beware: never throw your leftover wax into your sink! When it cools, it will solidify and permanently block your pipes.

If you want to add a little beeswax to your mixture of paraffin and stearin to improve the quality of your candle (slower burning and better scent), make sure that
- your mixture composition doesn't exceed 10% beeswax
- and the inside of your mold is well-coated with petroleum jelly so that you will be able to remove the candle successfully.

To make the bases of your candles flat, put them in a room-temperature pot while cooling.

To figure out how much wax you'll need to fill your mold, first calculate how much water the mold can hold. The mold can hold 90% as much wax as water. (If your mold can hold 100 ml of water, you'll need 90 grams of wax; that is, about 4.5 ounces of wax for every 0.5 cup of water.)

:laura:

All About Dipped Candles

2009-06-26T09:06:00.000+02:00

Dipped candles are thin and tapered. They are also known as "taper candles".

Supplies

Materials

Paraffin
Candle dye
Wick, rolled

Tools

Tall, narrow container (like a jam jar)
Wax thermometer
Stick of wood
Stovetop pot

Instructions

Prepare some wicks that are 60 cm (2 ft) long. Each wick will enable you to make 2 candles, 2 at a time. Melt the paraffin in a water bath (made with the jam jar, for example, in the stovetop pot).

When the wax reaches 71°C (160°F), soak the wicks in it for 5 minutes.

After the wicks have been permeated by the wax, remove them and let them cool, stretched to their full length, on parchment paper.

Color the wax by mixing in the dye a little at a time. Stir well so that the color is homogeneous throughout. Take note: the color of the hot wax is always darker than it will be when the wax cools.

When the wax reaches 71°C (160°F) again, begin dipping. Fold each wick in half and drape it over a wooden stick. Plunge the wicks into the wax for 3 seconds, remove, and repeat the step as many times as necessary (about 20 times).

For the last dipping, make the wax hotter (82°C/180°F) so that the candles will have a smooth look.

:laura:

All About Gel Candles

2009-06-25T09:08:00.000+02:00

These unique and long-lasting candles are ideal for those looking for an alternative decorative candle for their home.

Gel candles do not contain paraffin but, as their name suggests, they contain a gel that burns 5 times more slowly than paraffin and which melts at 70°C (158°F) rather than 50°C (122°F). However, the gel is not suitable for adding perfumes or essential oils to, as the high temperature would destroy them.

The principle of gel candles is simple: the gel is poured into a transparent container and can be colored or embellished with objects in the container.

Supplies

Materials

Gel for the candles
Dye
Transparent container
Wick with a metallic base + glue + toothpicks OR a wick stiffened with paraffin + needle
Nonflammable objects such as stones, sand, shells, or pieces of glass

Tools

2 saucepans for making a bain marie

Instructions

Melt the gel in the bain marie, paying attention not to get any water in the gel.
NB: To clean saucepan afterward, allow the gel to cool and then carefully peel off it off.
Gradually add the dye until you have the desired shade.
Glue the base of the wick to the bottom of the container and keep the wick straight with the help of 2 toothpicks, 1 placed at each side of the container.
Pour the gel into the container.
Alternative method for inserting the wick:
- Take a wick without a metallic base and dip it into melted paraffin to make it stiff.
- Heat a needle with a candle and stick it into the cold gel. Take it out again and in its place insert the wick.

Tips

Bubbles

Bubbles are inevitable in every case, but you can try to make the most of them, especially for aquarium-type creations or when using a champagne glass as your container.

To make bubbles, introduce the gel to contrasting temperatures. Heat the gel well and stir it, then pour it into a well-cooled container and cool it abruptly in an iced bain marie.
In order to have the least amount of bubbles possible, do the opposite. Reheat cool gel in a bain marie and tap the side of your container so that the bubbles rise to the surface and you can burst them.

Layered Colors

Pour one color of gel into the container and allow it to cool completely.
Add another color on top of this cooled layer.
Repeat as many times as desired.

Decorative Items

Place the items in your container and then pour the gel over them.

Translation: Emma-Jane

:laura:

All About Candles

2009-06-24T10:45:00.001+02:00

Making candles is a fun project for both children and adults.

This is an easy and cheap activity that doesn't require many supplies, as long as you can give up some old pots.

There are 6 basic techniques for making candles:

Gel candles are kept in transparent containers.
Dipped candles or taper candles. These candles are thin and tapered.
Molded candles. This easy technique doesn't require much material, but what it uses can't be reused. Don't use your best pots for this one!
Rolled candles with sheets of beeswax. Making them is simple and has surprisingly good results. Accessible even to children, these pretty candles have an incomparable scent.
Wax bead candles: you only need to pour the beads in a container (glass is the safest in this case) and alternate layers of color, then add a wick. You can also try making patterns using a toothpick.
Moldable candles: like modeling clay, you shape them with your fingers and can mix them to make new colors. After they’re shaped, use a toothpick to carefully make a hole to slide the wick through. Make sure to make candles that are flat and thick enough so that the candle can burn for a fairly long time.

Supplies

When it comes to candles, it's all about wax.

Paraffin wax is the most commonly used base. It always needs to be mixed with stearin (at a proportion of 10% stearin to 90% paraffin).
- Stearin facilitates removal of the candle from the mold and acts as a solidifying agent.
- Always begin by melting the stearin before the paraffin.
- Ready-made mixtures of stearin and paraffin are available at specialty stores.

Beeswax is a natural product.
- Beeswax is costly and a little dififcult to work with because it is very sticky.
- However, beeswax candles burn more slowly than the other types of candles. Because of this, beeswax is often mixed with other types of wax to slow the burning process.
- If the percentage of beeswax in a wax mixture exceeds 10% of the total, you should coat the inside of the mold with petroleum jelly if you want to be able to remove the candle from the mold.

Taper candle wax is a wax blend that's more malleable than other waxes. Because it doesn't flake away, it's used for projects requiring precision, particularly for engraving.

Other Supplies

Candle making doesn't require a lot of supplies. However, the materials you use should be dedicated to candle making. Don't expect to be able to salvage the pot in which you melt the candle wax.

Wicks
- The wick is the component that allows the candle to burn.
- Its thickness must be adapted to the type of candle you're making: candles with a large diameter and candles made from beeswax require thick wicks.
- Some wicks are called "cored" or "wired" because they are woven around a metal strand. These are primarily used in long-burning candles.
- So that they can be easily used, wicks should be stiffened by soaking them in paraffin for 5 minutes so that they are permeated by it.

Candle scents are tested to make sure that they don't affect the heat of the candle, so there's no problem with using them. A few drops will suffice.

Dyes
- Candles can be dyed either completely or superficially. In either case, you can use solid or liquid colorants. These dyes should be mixed as you go along with the stearin, before the paraffin. Take note: the color of the hot wax won't be the same as the color of the cooled wax.
- To test the color, take a small drop out of your wax mixture and let it dry. You can then alter the color of the wax mixture if it's not the color you want.

Molds
- Plastic and latex are the most commonly used molds. They are available in many more shapes than are glass molds, but their lifespan is much shorter.
- Candles can be created in all sorts of molds. For example, you can use muffin tins to make small floating candles, or you can use old milk cartons to make square pillar candles.
- If a mold isn't waterproof, you can use modeling clay to seal it.

:laura:

All About Clay

2009-06-23T14:41:00.000+02:00

Clay is a natural and malleable material. It air dries but it remains very fragile unless it's cooked.

Supplies

Natural clay. Different types of clay contain more or less grease. The greasier the clay is, the easier it is to mold, but the longer it takes to dry.
Wire clay cutter
Wooden rolling pin
Various boxwood tools to smooth and mark the clay
Wire end tools for furrowing the clay

Instructions

Set up your work at a table protected by oilcloth, because clay can stain (especially red clay).

Work the clay at length (half an hour), kneading and mixing it. Work out any air that might be contained in the clay so that it doesn't shatter during firing.

Model your object little by little, using boxwood tools or wire end tools as aids.

To join 2 separate parts, apply some water and smooth the clay at the junction of the 2 pieces.

Once your object is finished, let it dry at least 1 to 2 weeks before cooking it. Be careful, it will become very fragile!

Cook your object in a kiln at between 1100°C (2012°F) and 1300°C (2372°F), depending on the type of clay used.

Tips

Poke small holes in the most important pieces of your project to reduce the risk of breakage during cooking.

When clay dries, it becomes very fragile. To make your object more resistant to drying, cover it with a damp piece of cloth just until the object is dry. The slower the drying, the stronger the object will be.

Cooking clay is often complicated, since most people don't have permanent access to a kiln. Visit your local municipal hall or craft store to find craft clubs, universities, or workshops in your area that allow public access to their kilns.

:laura:

How Do You Make...?

2009-06-23T08:17:00.000+02:00

Hi all! Today starts a (very) mini series of posts about some of the techniques involved in crafting. In the lineup: clay, candles, Fimo clay (polymer clay), and salt dough!

Stay tuned... :)

:laura:

Paper Scrapbook Flowers DIY

2009-06-22T10:15:00.000+02:00

These are some super simple flowers to add to your scrapbooking repertoire. They'll work with other projects, too, like framing or jewelry and can be customized with ribbons or beads.

Supplies

Materials

Stiff paper

Tools

Pencil
Utility knife
Printer
Cutting board

Instructions

For all flowers

Place the template on the back of the paper.

Trace the outline and cut it out.

Mark the lines of the folds in pencil.

Rose

Download and print the rose template. It measures about 7.5 x 7.5 cm (2-7/8 x 2-7/8 inches).

Fold along the drawn line, in both directions, and flatten.

Repeat this process for each petal.

Working clockwise, refold 2 petals toward the middle and fit the notches together.

Fold the 3rd petal and fit it in under the 1st petal.

Do the same thing for the last petal.

Buttercup

Download the template for the buttercup. It measures about 5.5 x 5.5 cm (2-3/16 x 2-3/16 inches).

Working clockwise, fold the 1st 4 petals toward the middle, overlapping them.

When you fold the 5th and 6th petals, slide them under the 1st.

Flower with 4 petals

Download and print the template for the flower with 4 petals. It measures about 6.5 x 6.5 (2-9/16 x 2-9/16 inches).

Fold each petal along the line in its center, then unfold it.

Working clockwise, fold the petals toward the middle of the flower, overlapping them.

When you fold the 3rd and 4th petals, slide them under the 1st.

Tip

Try each design on plain paper first to make sure you've got the folding technique down, then do it on the real paper for your project.

Source: "Blog de Cath" ("Cath's Blog")
Find out about her workshops on her blog.

:laura:

Bargello Technique DIY

2009-06-21T10:11:00.000+02:00

The Bargello technique allows you to make a page background with strips of paper folded in half and layered diagonally in one direction on the top of the page and in the other direction on the bottom of the page.

Cath suggests making a bargello "her way" in order to avoid any unnecessary layers.

Supplies

Materials

Assorted (but matching) colored paper
White paper
Glue

Tools

Paper pencil
Ruler
Utility knife
Cutting board

Instructions

Draw a line about 1/3 down the white paper.

Draw a diagonal line, starting at the top left corner and stopping at the horizontal line.

Draw a 2nd diagonal line, starting from the bottom left corner and stopping at the horizontal line.

Cut the colored paper into strips that are 1.5 cm (5/8 inch) wide.

Glue the 1st strip along the upper diagonal line.

Glue the remaining strips side by side, alternating solid and patterned strips to create a visual balance.
NB: Don't worry about making the edges along the horizontal line look neat, because they'll be hidden behind another strip of paper.

Cut off the ends of the paper strips that overlap the edge of the white paper.

When the entire top section is filled with strips, do the same thing with the bottom section.

Hide the horizontal line where the edges meet with a strip of paper, either solid or patterned.

Source: "Le blog de Cath" ("Cath's Blog")
Find out about her workshops on her blog.

:laura:

Yo-Yo Flower DIY

2009-06-20T10:09:00.000+02:00

A "classic" among seamstresses is the yo-yo, infinitely variable in its forms and uses. It's even easy enough to be made by children. In this case, Cath took up her needle and thread to make some scrapbooking accessories.

Level: Easy
Creation time: 10 mn

Supplies

Materials

Scraps of different fabrics
Matching thread
Buttons
Artificial flowers (store-bought or handmade)

Tools

Sewing needle

Instructions

Cut a 16 cm (6-1/4 inches) circle of fabric
NB: This makes a final flower of 8 cm (3-1/8 inches).

Make the yo-yo.

Sew onto its center 1 or multiple flowers and, on top of them, 1 button.

Source: "Le blog de Cath" ("Cath's Blog")

:laura:

Quilted Cushion DIY

2009-06-19T10:06:00.001+02:00

Riddle me this:
I'm an indispensable accessory for the comfort of all, but I'm also very useful for seamstresses. What am I?

...a soft quilted cushion, of course! Useful for sitting or as a pincushion.

Level: Easy
Creation time: 40 mn

Supplies

Materials

For a cushion measuring about 40 cm (15-3/4 inches):
- Band of fabric measuring 42 x 92 cm (16-1/2 x 36-1/4 inches)
- Wadding
- 4 buttons for decoration
- Matching thread

Tools

Scissors
Sewing machine
Needle

Instructions

Cut 2 squares measuring 42 x 42 cm (16-1/2 x 16-1/2 inches) for the top and bottom and 4 rectangles (42 x 12 cm/16-1/2 x 4-3/4 inches) for the sides.

Sew the sides, right sides together, 1 by 1 to the squares, at 1 cm (3/8 inch) from the edge.

Do the same thing with the other square, leaving an opening in 1 of the sides.

Turn the cushion right side out.

Stuff the cushion well and sew the opening shut.

Sew the edges in a way that will give it a quilted look:
- Prick the side at 1 cm (3/8 inch) from the top edge and make the needle come out again on top, at 1 cm (3/8 inch) from the edge, moving slightly away (to the left or right, depending on which end you started on) from your original stitch.
- Prick the top again, at 1 mm (1/32 inch) from the last stitch, then stitch repeat this stitch along the length of the side, always moving in a progressive direction away from your original stitch.
- Pull the thread to gather the edge.

Repeat this stitch all the way around the cushion on the top and bottom (you'll have to go around the whole cushion twice).

Finish with the 4 buttons, pushing the needle all the way through the cushion and coming out through the button on the opposite side. Pull the thread tight to emphasize the quilted look.

Source: "Froufrou et capucine" ("Froufrou and Nasturtiums")

:laura:

String-Tied Flower DIY

2009-06-18T10:03:00.000+02:00

This string-tied flower is pretty as a picture and invites you to even more creativity. Add a hairpin and you've got a barrette; a ribbon and you've got a headband or wrist corsage; a fastener and you've got a brooch. Set your imagination free and see what you come up with!

Level: Easy
Creation time: 1h

Supplies

Materials

Fabric for the flower, 2 pieces
Green fabric for the leaves
Wadding
Sewing thread
Embroidery thread that matches the fabric
1 button (or 1 medium-sized bead)

Tools

Compass (or round object)
Needle
Embroidery needle
Scissors

Instructions

Put the pieces of fabric for the flower together, right sides together.
Draw a circle of the desired size on the wrong side of the fabric.

Sew the circle through the 2 layers of fabric, right sides together, leaving a small opening to turn the fabric right side out.

Turn the fabric right side out.
Fill the fabric with wadding.
Close the opening with a few small stitches.

With an embroidery needle, prick the center of the circle and make the needle come out the other side. Pull the thread through.

Reprick again at the same spot and pull the thread tight.

To form the petals, make 4 equal divisions in the flower this way, then split them again into 8.

Make a knot and let the rest of the thread hang to use in the next steps.

Draw the leaves and cut the design twice.

To make the leaves, there are 2 options depending on the type of fabric:
- Sew the 2 layers of fabric together, wrong sides together, oversewing the edges and leaving a small opening through which to slide the wadding (option chosen for the example).
- Sew the 2 layers of fabric together, right sides together, leaving a small opening. Cut away any extra tissue and turn it right side out.

Fill the leaves with wadding and sew the opening shut.

Sew the flower and the leaves together with the remaining embroidery thread, adding the button (or bead) at the center of the flower.

Finish by embroidering the veins of the leaves.

Source: "Froufrou et capucine" ("Froufrou and Nasturtiums")

:laura:

Child's Cape DIY

2009-06-17T09:55:00.001+02:00

A one-piece child's cape that doesn't need any sewing!

Who could ask for more?

An original design without a hood that lends a mischievous air to its wearer.

Thanks to "Froufrou et Capucine" ("Froufrou and Nasturtiums") for sharing this tutorial.

Level: Easy
Creation time: 1 h

Supplies

Materials

Polar yarn (amount depends on child's measurements)
Fabric for the lining (amount depends on child's measurements)
1 appliqué
2 medium snap buttons
Matching thread

Tools

Paper pencil
Measuring tape
Sewing machine
Needle
Scissors
Pins

Instructions

Measure the distance from the child's one wrist to the other.

On the first fabric, draw a line of that length.

Find the middle of that line and trace a circle centered on it using a pencil and a piece of thread as a compass: pin the end of the thread at the center point, tie a pencil to the other end (at the distance you want half of the circle's diameter to be) and draw a circle.
NB: If you want a cape that's a little longer, trace an oval there. It will give the same arm length but will increase the length in the front and back.

Cut around the drawn circle (or oval).

Do the same thing with the other fabric.

Measure the child's head.

Fold the cape in half (along the short side, if you made an oval).

Draw a T in the middle, the length of the arms of the T equaling the the head measurements plus a few cm/inches.

Unfold the cape and cut the T.
NB: Only cut the front, not the back.

Do the same thing with the other fabric.

Add an appliqué or a charm to the cape.
Sew the 2 fabrics together, right sides together, leaving a large opening.

Turn the cape right side out and sew the opening shut.

Fold 5 mm (1/16 inch) in around the collar and sew the wrong side with a zigzag stitch.

Add 2 snap buttons to close the wrists, along the arm line, a few cm/inches from the edge.

Tips

To avoid an opening that's too large, cut the T in steps. Try it for size and cut more, if necessary.

Source: "Froufrou et capucine" ("Froufrou and Nasturtiums")

:laura:

Fabric Star DIY

2009-06-16T09:52:00.000+02:00

"Froufrou et capucine" ("Froufrou and Nasturtiums") shows us how to make a hanging fabric star, an easy project that can be made with any style of fabric to fit any season or home decorating mood that strikes.

Level: Easy
Creation time: 20 mn

Supplies

Materials

Tracing or tissue paper for the pattern
30 x 30 cm (11-13/16 x 11-13/16 inches) of 3 different fabrics
1 ribbon
Wadding
1 button
Matching sewing thread

Tools

Scissors
Basic sewing supplies
Sewing machine
Paper pencil

Instructions

Download the pattern for the points of the star.

Cut out the template in 3 fabrics 5 times, yielding 5 pieces.

Sew 4 pieces together in sets of 2.

Iron to flatten the seams.

Sew the 2 sets of 2 and the 1 remaining piece together at the center point.

To finish the star's shape, sew together the 2 remaining edges.

Lay out the star shape on another fabric, right sides together, with the ribbon, folded in half, between the 2, coming out at the highest point.

Sew at 0.5 cm (3/16 inch) from the border, leaving a small opening for turning the star right side out.

Turn the star right side out and fill it with wadding.

Close the star with some small hand stitches.

Final touch: add a small button on each side at the center of the star, sewn on tightly.

Source: "Froufrou et capucine" ("Froufrou and Nasturtiums")

:laura:

Matryoshka Glasses Case DIY

2009-06-15T09:46:00.002+02:00

With its Slavic air, this flannel matryoshka glasses case makes a great fashion accessory.

With some time and the proper ambition, you can create matryoshka glasses cases of all sizes for the whole family!

Level: Easy for the experienced seamstress, intermediate for the beginner
Creation time: 1h 30 mn for an experienced seamstress, not including drying and painting time; a little more for the beginner

Supplies

Materials

32 x 9 cm (12-1/2 x 3-1/2 inches) of leftover flowered cotton fabric
22 x 19 cm (8-5/8 x 7-1/2 inches) of leftover polka-dotted cotton fabric
22 x 19 cm (8-5/8 x 7-1/2 inches) of leftover flannel
1.5 m (5 ft) of matching bias tape
Fabric paint
Matching sewing thread
Hook-and-loop fastener (Velcro), a small piece

Tools

Essential sewing supplies
Sewing machine
Small paintbrush
Paper scissors
Computer printer (optional)

Instructions

Make the pieces

Download the coin purse pattern and print it.

Cut:
- A, 2 times in the polka-dotted fabric, 2 times in the flannel, and 2 times in the flowered fabric,
- B, 2 times in the polka-dotted fabric and 2 times in the flowered fabric,
- C and D in the flowered fabric.

Paint the Russian doll face with fabric paint on D.

Let dry.

Set the colors with an iron, following the manufacturer's instructions.

Assemble the case

Sew the 2 sides of the hook-and-loop fastener onto the B pieces of the flowered fabric.

Pin C and D onto the A pieces in polka-dotted fabric.

Sew the bottom of C and D (the edge of the headscarf) with a tight zigzag stitch.

Pin each set of A and B pieces together, wrong sides together, putting the flannel between them.

Sew a running stitch at 5 mm (1/16 inch) from the edge.

Apply bias tape to the top of each piece.

Pin the two pieces together, hook-and-loop fastener against hook-and-loop fastener.

Sew together with a running stitch, following the template's stitch line.

Apply bias tape to the stitching you just finished.

Put your glasses in their case.

Source: "Chronique d'un petit poisson créatif" ("Chronicle of a Creative Little Fish")
Boutique: Le poisson est dans le sac (The Fish is in the Bag)
Sale Outlet: Les petites souris (The Little Mice)

:laura:

Slavic Oven Mitt & Potholder DIY

2009-06-14T09:39:00.000+02:00

An oven mitt and potholder in the shape of a matryoshka doll: pretty and practical! Why not add a decorative Russian touch to your kitchen?

Level: Easy
Creation time: 2h to make both

Supplies

Materials

For the oven mitt:
- 20 cm (7-7/8 inches) fabric for the body
- 15 cm (5-7/8 inches) fabric for the headscarf
- 20 cm (7-7/8 inches) fabric for the lining
- 20 cm (7-7/8 inches) flannel
- 40 cm (15-3/4 inches) lace edging
- 2 m (78-3/4 inches) matching bias tape
- Matching sewing thread
For the potholder:
- 20 cm (7-7/8 inches) fabric for the body
- 15 cm (5-7/8 inches) fabric for the headscarf
- 20 cm (7-7/8 inches) fabric for the lining
- 20 cm (7-7/8 inches) flannel
- 40 cm (15-3/4 inches) lace edging
- 1 m (39-3/8 inches) matching bias tape
- Matching sewing thread

Tools

Basic sewing supplies
Computer printer (optional)
Iron and ironing board (optional)

Instructions

Download the Russian doll potholder pattern and oven mitt template.

Download the Russian doll face pattern 01 and face pattern 02.

Russian doll oven mitt

Cut pieces A1 and A2 from the fabric chosen for the headscarf.
Use fabric paint to draw the Russian doll face on A1.

Or print the Russian doll face on transfer paper and iron it on.

Cut piece B, 2 times, in the fabric chosen for the body.

Pin A1 onto B.

Sew A1 and B together with a zigzag stitch, switching to a tight zigzag stitch for the "knot" of the headscarf.

Sew on lace edging.

Fold ribbon in half and pin it at the top of A1 and B.
Sew it in place with a zigzag stitch.

Pin A2 onto B.

Sew together with a zigzag stitch.

Sew on lace edging.

Cut piece C, 2 times, in the fabric chosen for the lining and 2 times in the flannel.
Pin together A1/B, flannel C, and lining C.

Sew 5 mm (1/16 inch) from the edge with a running stitch.

Pin together A2/B, flannel C, and lining C.

Sew 5 mm (1/16 inch) from the edge with a running stitch.

Pin together the 2 pieces you've created, placing side A1/B against side A2/B (right sides together).

Sew 5 mm (1/16 inch) from the edge with a zigzag stitch.

For a clean finish, add bias tape on top of the edge stitching.

Turn right side out.

Add bias tape around the bottom opening.

Russian doll potholder

Follow the same instructions as for the oven mitt, with these exceptions:
Fold ribbon in half and pin it on top of A2.
Sew the edge with a zigzag stitch.

Cut piece C in flannel.
Pin together A1/B, flannel C, and A2/B.

Sew bias tape around the border of the potholder.

Source: "Chronique d'un petit poisson créatif" ("Chronicles of a Creative Little Fish")
Boutique: Le poisson est dans le sac (The Fish is in the Bag)
Sale outlet: Les petites souris (The Little Mice)

:laura:

Russian Doll Label DIY

2009-06-13T09:34:00.000+02:00

This label cover in the shape of a Russian doll can attach to baggage or to a child's school bag.

For more explanation concerning this project, go see its cousin, the fish label.

Level: Easy
Creation time: 15 mn

Supplies

Materials

Patterned vinyl fabric
Transparent plastic (like that used to cover books)
Gel glue, all-purpose
Matching sewing thread
Empty cereal boxes

Tools

Basic sewing supplies
Sewing machine
Paper scissors
Wooden pencil
Utility knife
Computer printer (optional)

Instructions

Download and print the Russian doll label template.

Source: "Chronique d'un petit poisson créatif" ("Chronicles of a Creative Little Fish")
Boutique: Le poisson est dans le sac (The Fish is in the Bag)
Sale outlet: Les petites souris (The Little Mice)

:laura:

Perfumed Fish Garland DIY

2009-06-12T09:30:00.000+02:00

A shoal of little fish have come out of the water to slip into your home decor. Colored, striped, or polka dotted, they line up as a perfumed garland that contains dried, scented flowers to bring beautiful smells into your home.

Level: Easy
Creation time: 30 mn

Supplies

Materials

Fabric scraps
Dried lavender
1 m (40 inches) cord
Synthetic stuffing
1 old stocking
Sewing thread

Tools

Sewing scissors
Sewing needle

Instructions

Download the templates.

Trace the templates on fabric that has been folded in half.

Sew with a small stitch, following the trace lines and taking care to leave an opening at the top, at the bottom, and on the side of 2.5 cm (1 inch).

Cut the extra fabric at 0.5 cm (3/16 inch) outside of the stitching.

Turn it right side out.

Fill the old stocking with lavender to make several small sachets.

Slide 1 sachet into each fish.

Pass the cord through the fish.

Make a tassel with the fabric scraps.

Stuff the fish.

Sew the cord at the tail and mouth of each fish.

Close the openings with a small, invisible stitch.

:laura:

Pinwheel DIY

2009-06-11T09:25:00.000+02:00

This cute, colored pinwheel is great for playing outside whenever nice weather comes around. This DIY project requires very little material and is a fun task for kids (with a mother's help!).

Level: Easy
Creation time: Less than 1h

Supplies

Materials

Plastic file dividers in different colors
Colored straws
Colored beads
Wooden chopsticks or gardening stakes
Small flat-headed studs
Glue

Tools

Pencil
Ruler
Scissors
Hammer

Instructions

Draw a square on a file divider and cut it out.
Pierce the four corners and the middle and cut along the lines as indicated on the drawing below.

Cut the straws into 1-cm (3/8-inch) pieces and slide them onto the chopsticks, alternating the colors as you do so.
Paste glue onto the outer edges of the square.
Form the pinwheel by folding the four corners one after the other toward the center.
Put a stud with a bead on it through the center of the pinwheel.
Follow this with a second bead on the opposite side.
Gently hammer together to complete the pinwheel.

Source: "Et moi alors dans tout ça !" ("And me, too, in all that!")
Translation: Emma-Jane

:laura:

Featherlight Purse DIY

2009-06-10T11:34:00.002+02:00

A purse by function, featherlight by weight, and eye-catching by design, this very detailed how-to comes from Nadja.

Level: Easy
Creation time: 1h

Supplies

Materials

25 cm (9-7/8 inches) fabric for the bag
25 cm (9-7/8 inches) fabric for the lining
8 x 140 cm (3-1/8 x 55-1/8 inches) strip of fabric for the pleating
4 x 90 cm (1-9/16 x 35-7/16 inches) strip of fabric for the loops (or ribbon measuring 1 x 80 cm/3/8 x 31-1/2 inches)
70 cm (27-9/16 inches) cord or ribbon for the handles
Matching sewing thread
Sheet of scrap paper

Tools

Essential sewing supplies
Sewing machine
Paper scissors
Wooden pencil

Instructions

Download and print the purse template.

Trace the templates on paper (the dimensions listed are for the finished piece).

Cut out templates.

Cut pieces A and B in the fabric for the bag (here, the red toile de Jouy).

Cut pieces C and D in the fabric for the lining (here, the dotted red).

Cut piece E in the fabric for the pleating (here, the striped red).

Cut piece F in the fabric for the loops (here, the red cotton fabric with white dots).

Fold piece E in half lengthwise, right sides together.

Sew with a running stitch, 1 cm (3/8 inch) from the edge, the 2 far ends.

Turn it right side out and press the fold with an iron.

Pin piece E onto the right side of piece A at the middle and ends to hold it in place.

Form and pin the pleats, about 1 cm (3/8 inch) each.

Sew the pleating with a running stitch at 1 cm (3/8 inch) from the edge.

On piece F, make a fold to bring in the fabric by 1 cm (3/8 inch) on each side.

Fold it in half and pin along its length.

Sew a running stitch at 2 mm (1/32 inch) from the edge.

Cut the resulting piece into 16 equal pieces.

Fold each piece in half to form the loops.

Pin them on A and B, following the reference points.

Sew the loops on with a running stitch, 1 cm (3/8 inch) from the edge.

Pin A to B, right sides together.

Sew a running stitch, following the stitching on the pleating.

Turn the piece right side out and make a fold of 1 cm (3/8 inch) toward the inside along the top edge.

Pin C and D, right sides together.

Sew a running stitch at 1 cm (3/8 inch) from the edge.

Make a fold of 1 cm (3/8 inch) toward the outside, along the top edge.

Slip C/D inside A/B, pinning them together with their stitches aligned.

Sew them together at 2 mm (1/32 inch) from the edge.

Cut the ribbon or cord in half.

Pass the ribbon through the loops.

Knot each end of the ribbons.

:laura:

Reversible Newborn Jacket DIY

2009-06-09T09:54:00.002+02:00

Sew a reversible jacket to welcome a newborn bundle of joy, following this tutorial by Beautiful Poulette.

Level: Intermediate
Creation time: 3 to 4h

Supplies

Materials

Polar fleece (2 contrasting colors)
Assorted sewing thread
2 assorted buttons

Tools

Basic sewing supplies
Sewing machine

Instructions

Download and print the patterns for the sleeve, the front flap, and the back of the jacket.

Place the patterns on both colors of polar fleece and cut them out, adding 1 cm (3/8 inch):
- around the pattern of the back,
- around the pattern of the front flap,
- at the bottom of the pattern for the sleeves.

Pin the cut fabric of each color together, right sides facing each other, and stitch with the sewing machine 1 cm (3/8 inch) from the border: the back and the front, the sleeves, and the sides. You should now have two separate, differently-colored jackets.

On each of the two parts, sew a design by hand. Sew it on the left flap of face A and on the right flap of face B (see illustration below). If further embellishment is desired, use the machine to sew extra decorations with a running stitch.

Put the two parts together, right sides facing each other. Pin and sew the flaps together, including at the neckline. Turn the jacket inside out, as you would a glove, and press the seams with an iron.

Put one set of sleeves inside the other. On each side, fold the edges of the sleeve fabric in toward each other so that they don't show, and sew a seam 1 cm (3/8 inch) from the border.

Sew a buttonhole into the flap with the embroidery on it, making sure to sew well through both layers of fabric. Sew a button on each side of the other flap, lining it up with the buttonhole.

Finish by sewing a 1-cm (3/8-inch) hem on each part of the jacket.

(translation: when i was little, i was Jedi...) :-)

Source: Beautiful Poulette

:laura:

Appliquéd Tunic Collar DIY

2009-06-08T14:44:00.000+02:00

How do you piece together an appliquéd collar or yoke for a dress or a tunic? It's easily done, following the instructions given by "Froufrou et Capucine" ("Froufrou and Nasturtium").

If the method seems a little old-fashioned, the result is not.

This is an effective way of personalizing and adding finishing touches to a sewing project.

Level: Intermediate
Creation time: 1h

Supplies

Materials

Fabrics
Matching thread

Tools

Basic sewing supplies

Instructions

Wash and iron the fabrics.

Cut the fabrics into the pieces required for the top of the tunic:
- yoke: the back and the 2 front sides
- 3 collar pieces: 1 back and 2 fronts

Assemble the shoulder-level pieces and sew them together.

Iron the outside edges of the collar to prepare for the hem joining the yoke to the collar.

Sew the collar pieces together, the back connecting the 2 front pieces.

Pin the collar to the top of the yoke, overlapping slightly so that the right side of the collar is against the wrong side of the yoke.

Sew at 0.5 cm (1/32 inch) from the inside collar edge, leaving a few centimeters/inches from the top (stop at the place marked by the yellow arrows).

Pink the curves you just sewed, turn the collar right side out, and iron.

Finish off this seam by stitching along the collar (the parts you left hanging loose from the yoke) edge to edge.
Sew the yoke in the same way, so you have 2 unattached sections that have seams.

Selvedge the collar and the coke all around, at a few mm (1/32 inch) from the edges of the collar.

Final result, wrong side:

Final result, right side:

Source: "Froufrou et Capucine" ("Froufrou and Nasturtium")
E-boutique: ça froufroute dans la boutique ! (There's froufrou in the boutique!)

:laura:

Lavender Bundle DIY

2009-06-07T09:34:00.000+02:00

Use this lavender bundle to evoke images of southern France, where lavender is very popular. It brings with it a pleasant, perfumed thought and can be offered as a gift to a friend or hostess.

This fresh and delicately braided bundle is as lovely to smell as to look at.

Level: Easy
Creation time: 20 mn

Supplies

Materials

30 sprigs fresh lavender
2 m (6-1/2 ft) ribbon that's 1 cm (3/8 inch) wide

Tools

Scissors

Instructions

Arrange the lavender sprigs in a bouquet.

With an end of the ribbon, make a knot just below the blooms, tying them together.

Fold all the stalks toward the flowers, spreading them all around.

Weave the ribbon:
- Pass the ribbon under 2 stalks, then over 2 stalks, and repeat for the rest.
- Pull tightly each time.

When the first round is finished, do the same thing, reversing the over/under pattern for the next row and each row following until all of the stalks are covered.

Finish with a pretty knot.

Source: "Froufrou et capucine" ("Froufrou and Nasturtium")

Tips

Make your bundles on the day the lavender is picked so that the stalks don't break when you fold them.

Wait several days after making the knot at the base because, as the stalks dry, the bundle may shrink and it's sometimes necessary to tighten the ribbon.

Source: "Et moi dans tout ça !" ("And me, too, in all that!")

:laura:

Super Simple Sack DIY

2009-06-06T10:17:00.001+02:00

A simple and useful idea! To make this super simple sack any easier would be practically impossible.

Level: Easy
Creation time: 30 mn

Supplies

Materials

In 2 different fabrics:
- 1 square measuring 60 x 60 cm (2 x 2 ft)
- 2 bands measuring 100 x 8 cm (39-5/16 x 3-3/16)
1 square measuring 60 x 60 cm (2 x 2 ft) of fabric for the lining
20 cm (7-7/8 inches) of ribbon, 1 cm (3/8 inch) wide
2 buttons
2 small links (of ribbon, for example)

Tools

Scissors
Sewing machine
Needles
Sewing or paper pencil

Instructions

Draw and then cut a square of 60 x 60 cm (2 x 2 ft) in the 2 fabrics.

Put them on top of each other, wrong sides together.

Draw and cut 4 buttonholes at 10 cm and 3 cm (3-5/16 x 1-3/16 inches) from the edges, on 2 opposite sides, following this downloadable pattern.

Sew the buttonholes, going through both layers of fabric.

Fold closely along the buttonholes and sew the wrong sides at 2 mm (1/32 inch) from the edge.

Fold 10 cm (3-5/16 inch) of the other 2 sides and sew the wrong side at 2 mm (1/32 inch) from the edge.

Slide the ribbon in one of the buttonholes and make it come out through the other.

Gather the fabric and knot the ribbon on each side of the sack.

Add a link and a button to close above each knot.

Make the handles

Fold the bands of 100 x 8 cm (39-5/16 x 3-3/16 inches) in half lengthwise, with the right side of the fabric on the inside.

Sew them lengthwise.

Turn them right side out.

Sew each open side shut at 2 mm (1/32 inch) from the edge.

Slide the handles into the 10-cm (3-5/16-inch) flaps.

Sew from end to end, hiding the stitching in the flap.

Source: "Froufrou et capucine" ("Froufrou and Nasturtium")

:laura:

Reversible Belt DIY

2009-06-05T09:55:00.004+02:00

A reversible belt made of fabric with a quilted effect goes well with a tunic, jeans, a dress, etc. In other words, it's an essential for a chic and practical wardrobe.

Level: Easy
Creation Time: 30 mn

Supplies

Materials

2 different fabrics (amount depends on waist size and desired belt width)
Thin flannel (amount depends on waist size and desired belt width)
80 cm (31-1/2 inches) matching ribbon

Tools

Scissors
Pins
Measuring tape
Sewing machine (or thread and a needle)

Instructions

Measure around your waist.

Mark the fabric with the desired length and width.
NB: Remember to add a little additional space for the seams.

Cut this band in the 2 fabrics and the flannel.

Put together the 2 fabrics, right sides together.

Pin the flannel on one of the fabrics. The flannel is now on the outside.

Sew the 3 layers along 2 long sides and 1 width, leaving an opening the size of your ribbon on the upper corner.

Cut 40 cm (15-3/4 inches) of ribbon and slide it between the 2 fabrics in the upper corner.

Sew it in place, leaving a 1-cm/3/8-inch tail.
NB: This 1-cm (3/8-inch) ribon tail will be on the inside of the belt once it's turned right side out.
Turn the belt right side out so that the flannel is on the inside.

Sew the last width, attaching the end of the other ribbon in the other upper corner.

Finish by stitching in zigzag stitches along the length of the belt, which will make it appear quilted.
NB: If your sewing machine only does simple stitches, you can add a shape to your stitching.

Source: "Froufrou et capucine" ("Froufrou and Nasturtium")

:laura:

Cord Bracelet DIY

2009-06-04T10:46:00.001+02:00

These knotted cord bracelets are easy to make and sturdy to wear, perfect for any outdoor expedition. Thanks to David for sharing his tutorial!

Supplies

Materials

Paracord (or equivalent 0.3-cm/1/8-inch diameter cord)
NB: Use a ratio of 1:12 for figuring out the length of cord needed. Use 12 cm (or 1 ft) of cord for every 1 cm (or 1 inch) of knotted bracelet length. A 24-cm (or 9-inch) bracelet would need 288 cm (or 9 ft) of cord.
Side release buckle

Tools

Tape measure or ruler
Scissors
Lighter (optional)
Butter knife (optional)

Instructions

Framework

Fold cord in half and push loop end through one end of the buckle.

Pull cord ends through the loop so that it tightens around the buckle.

Separate the buckle parts and slide the unattached end until ends are 2.5 cm (1 inch) farther apart than desired bracelet length.
NB: Measure from the tip of the female end of the buckle to the base of the prongs on the male end.

Knot and Body

NB: Start at the unattached end and work toward the knotted end.

Slide the left cord under the 2 center strands, leaving a gap on the left side.

Slide the right cord under the cord you just pulled to the right, over the 2 center strands, and through the loop on the left.

Pull the right and left cords to tighten the knot against the buckle.

Slide the right cord under the 2 center strands, leaving a gap on the right side.

Slide the left cord under the cord you just pulled to the left, over the 2 center strands, and through the loop of the right cord.
Pull the right and left cords to tighten the knot.

Repeat this process for the length of the bracelet.
NB: Remember to alternate sides so that the bracelet doesn't twist.

Weave ends back in to the last few knots and trim to finish.

Variations

Instead of weaving in the ends, melt them.
- Trim any excess cord after last knot.
- Melt end of one cut cord with lighter.
- Allow to cool slightly, then press melted end into surrounding cord with butter knife for a smooth finish.
- Repeat with other cut end.

Loop the paracord through each buckle piece twice to fill extra room if your buckle is larger than 1.25 cm (1/2 inch).

Add another layer of knots on top of the first.
NB: You will need twice as much cord for this second layer.

Use glow-in-the-dark cord.

Source: "Stormdrane's Blog"

:laura:

Cloth Animal Barrettes DIY

2009-06-03T10:24:00.001+02:00

Little girls love animals and making themselves pretty, so what makes them happy? Wearing pretty, personalized cloth animal barrettes, of course!

Level: Intermediate
Creation time: 20 mn

Supplies

Materials

Fabric scraps
Small barrettes
Stuffing
Matching sewing thread

Tools

Basic sewing supplies
Tweezers (optional)
Safety pin

Instructions

Download the barrette templates or draw your own models.

Trace the templates on fabric that has been folded in half, right sides together.

Sew along the outline in the smallest stitch possible.

Cut away the excess fabric, leaving 3 mm (1/32 inch) outside of the stitching.

Turn the figurines right side out with the aid of a safety pin and tweezers.

Fill them with stuffing.

Close the openings with small, invisible stitches.

Sew the figurines onto the barrettes.

:laura:

Fish Label DIY

2009-06-02T13:24:00.000+02:00

This stylized label in the shape of a goldfish can be used for baggage, children's school bags, or any other object.

Level: Easy
Creation time: 15 mn

Supplies

Materials

Red vinyl fabric
Transparent plastic (such as that used for covering books)
Gel glue, all-purpose
Matching sewing thread
Empty cereal boxes

Tools

Basic sewing supplies
Sewing machine
Paper scissors
Wooden pencil
Utility knife
Computer printer (optional)

Instructions

Download and print the goldfish label template.

Trace and cut out the templates on the cereal box.

With the help of the cardboard template, trace A and B on the vinyl fabric and trace C on the transparent plastic.

Cut out all of the pieces.

Apply a little glue to the outline of C.

Position it on the wrong side of A.

Sew C to A with a zig-zag stitch.

Apply glue to A in small dots.

Position A on B, wrong sides together.

Sew A to B, at 2 mm (1/32 inch) from all of the edges, following the sewing lines marked in the drawing below.

With the utility knife, cut out the slit and make the edges even.

Make a label on light cardboard and slide it into the label holder.

Source: Chronique d'un petit poisson créatif (Chronicles of a Creative Little Fish)
Boutique: Le poisson est dans le sac (The Fish is in the Bag)
Sale outlet: Les petites souris (The Little Mice)

:laura:

Fabric Crowns DIY

2009-06-01T09:08:00.001+02:00

Honor your pint-sized princes and princesses with these fabric crowns. They will delight at any birthday party or game of dress up, and the children can even help to make them. Thanks to Megan at Brassy Apple for sharing this creative idea!

Supplies

Materials

Fabric
Buttons
Bias tape
Rick rack
Lace
Fabric scraps
Embellishments (rhinestones, beads, etc.)
Fusible fleece or heavy fusible interfacing
Paper
Craft glue

Tools

Basic sewing supplies
Clothes iron
Pencil
Scissors
Glue gun (optional)

Instructions

Design a pattern for the crown on a piece of paper and cut it out.
Fuse fleece or interfacing to the wrong side of fabric.
NB: Using 2 layers will give a stiffer effect.

Pin pattern to fused area and cut it out.
Pin and sew bias tape along the bottom edge of the crown.

Add embellishments with craft or hot glue.

Pin the ends of the crown together with edges folded under for a finished look (see picture).

Sew in place.

Source: Brassy Apple

:laura:

Personalized Magnets and Pushpins DIY

2009-05-31T10:31:00.002+02:00

Looking for a creative way to use those fabric scraps? Need a way to hang all those reminder notes you write to yourself? These personalized magnets and pushpins by Megan at Brassy Apple are simple to make and stunning to display. Even children can enjoy this project!

Supplies

Materials

Decorative glass gems, flat on one side
Magnets or flat-headed pushpins, large enough to support a gem
Craft glue (like E6000)
Patterned fabric or scrapbook paper
Fusible interfacing or fleece (optional)
Toothpick

Tools

Scissors
Fabric marker or pen, to trace with
Glue gun (optional)

Instructions

Magnets

Lay out fabric and trace gems onto it.

Cut around the gem in a small square.
NB: The separate pieces are easier to work with than several gems on one piece of fabric.

Optional: Fuse interfacing or fleece to the back of the precut squares on the wrong side of the fabric for a finished look that won't fray when you cut it.
Cut out circles around gems.
Use a toothpick to apply glue to the right side of the fabric, a medium-sized dot in the center of each circle.

Place gem on top of glue and press down firmly and evenly.
NB: Be sure to work out as many glue bubbles as possible.
With craft glue or glue gun, attach magnets to the back of gems.
Place right side up to dry.

Pushpins

Follow above steps, substituting flat-headed pushpins for magnets.
Place pin side up to dry.

Source: Brassy Apple

:laura:

Woven Wheat Good Luck Charm DIY

2009-05-30T10:34:00.001+02:00

This good luck charm brings a little bit of nature into your home.

It's a small composition made of natural materials that requires a certain knack. You'll need 24 stalks of wheat that combine to represent the 12 months of the year.

Originally, it was customary at the end of the harvest to weave a bouquet with the last stalks that remained in the fields. This was saved until the next harvest as a good luck charm.

Supplies

Materials

24 stalks of wheat
- preferably picked about 3 weeks before the harvest so that the grains won't fall off
- of uniform and open appearance, with stalks of the same diameter and length (at least 25 cm/9-7/8 inches long)
Some raffia strands

Tools

Scissors

Instructions

Cut the stalks above the highest knot and remove the sheath by sliding it off the length of the stalk.

Take a piece of stalk measuring 10 cm (3-15/16 inch) to serve as a support. Make a loop with the raffia in the center to serve as a fastener.

1st stalk of wheat

Put the 1st stalk of wheat in front of the support stick, upside down, to the right of the raffia knot, so that you have 10 cm (3-15/16 inch) between the head of wheat and the stick.

Fold the straw around the stick. Make it come around the back to the right, then fold it in front to the left. Secure it along the length of the stick.

2nd stalk of wheat

Place the 2nd stalk at the back of the stick, to the left of the raffia knot.

Fold the straw around the stick.

Make it come in front on the left, then fold it around the back to the right.

Rest of the stalks

Continue the work symmetrically on each site of the raffia knot.

Repeat the above steps, alternating sides, through the 8th stalk.

9th stalk of wheat

The 9th stalk is worked in to the right, upside down, between the 2nd and 3rd stalks parallel to the stick.

Fold it around the back, bring it around the front, then fold it to the left.

10th stalk of wheat

The 10th stalk of wheat is worked in to the left in the same way, between the 2nd and 3rd stalks.

Fold it around the front, bring it to the back, then fold it to the right.

Final stalks

Repeat the above steps, alternating the sides, through the 16th stalk.

Work in the rest of the stalks in the same manner, starting between the 6th and 7th stlaks parallel to the stick and weave them in, through the last stalk. Knot each side of the last stalk with some raffia to hold the project together.

Cut each side, leaving 5 mm (1/16 inch), of the first 2 stalks of the first level, then the 3 following of the second level, and then the last ones.

Arrange the wheat heads in the pattern of one on top, one below.

Let it dry flat for 2 days.

Source: Et moi alors dans tout ça !

:laura:

Soft Children's Slippers DIY

2009-05-29T11:20:00.002+02:00

These children's slippers will warm up their little feet and give them confidence in their steps.

In fabric or in leather, with flowers or with stripes: it's up to you to decide!

The pattern is available in different sizes, from 25 to 30 (Europe), 7.5 to 12 (UK), and 8.5 to 13 (U.S.).

Supplies

Materials

Fabric: 1 type for the upper, 1 type for the lining, and 1 type for the soles
NB: Use different weights of fabric according to the season for which you are making the slippers. If the shoes are being made for children who are already walking, a sole of leather or suede (lined with cotton) is suggested to avoid the risk to slipping.
Assorted sewing thread
2 buttons
Flat elastic

Tools

Basic sewing supplies
Sewing machine
Needle

Instructions

Make the parts

Download the patterns.
NB: The patterns go up to size 30 (Europe)/size 12 (UK)/size 13 (U.S.), but the form is easily adapted for all little feet.

Cut out the fabric:
- for the upper, 4 times (2 for the outside and 2 for the lining).
- for the back, 4 times (2 for the outside and 2 for the lining).
- for the sole, 2 times.

Sew the 2 outside pieces for the upper together, right sides together, along the less rounded side, 5 mm (1/16 inch) from the edge.

Turn it right side out, press the fold, and sew it at 3 mm (1/32 inch) from the edge.

Sew a zig-zag stitch along the unsewn side to hold the 2 layers together.

Sew the 2 pieces for the back together, right sides together, along one of the long edges, at 5 mm (1/16 inch) from the edge.

Turn it right side out, press the fold, and sew at 3 mm (1/32 inch) from the edge.
Sew at 1.5 cm (5/8 inch) from the sewn edge so that you can slip an elastic through it.

Sew a zig-zag stitch along the opposite side to hold the 2 layers together.

Assemble the slipper

Baste the upper and back to the slipper to the sole, right sides together, aligning the front and back of the slipper. In this inside-out mode, the fabric that forms the back of the opening will fall on the outside of the front section.

Sew 5 mm (1/16 inch) from the edge and turn it right side out.

Final touches

Pass a flat elastic through the back part of the slipper. Overlap the 2 ends of the elastic and sew them solidly together so that the fabric gathers slightly.

Sew a button solidly onto the upper, passing through all of the layers, including the elastic.

Make the second slipper in the same way.

Variations

No lining: use thick cotton or wool fabric, depending on the season. You'll need to adjust the back part to be able to pass an elastic through it.

All leather: without lining and with exterior seams.

Tips

If the slippers are a little too big, make a dart in the upper.

To make the back fit higher on the ankle, make the back rectangle larger (see the commentary by Tomlou on Emmanuelle's blog).

Source: Et moi alors dans tout ça !

:laura:

Super Simple Child's Shorts DIY

2009-05-28T10:49:00.005+02:00

This pair of child's shorts is perfect for children because it has neither front nor back, fly nor pockets. It's easy for them to wear and super simple for you to make, too!

It's the ideal item to throw into children's suitcases at the last minute, especially the day before you head out on a vacation to the beach!

These can be made with any material, in all colors, and for sizes ranging from 2-6 years old (U.S. sizes 3T-7).

Supplies

Materials

For a pattern for a 6-year-old (U.S. size 7):

35 x 140 cm (14 x 55-1/8 inches) of fabric
48 cm (19 inches) of elastic with a width of 1 cm (3/8 inch)
- 46 cm (18-1/8 inches) for a 4-year-old (U.S. size 5/6)
- 44 cm (17-3/8 inches) for a 2-year-old (U.S. size 3T/4)
Paper to draw a pattern on

Tools

Basic sewing supplies
Pencil
Safety pin

Sizes

The pattern given here is in the 6-year-old (U.S. size 7) size.

To make a 4-year-old size (U.S. size 5/6), decrease the 6-year-old pattern by: 1cm (3/8 inch) at the top, 2 cm (3/4 inch) at the bottom, and 2 cm (3/4 inch) in total width.

To make a 2-year-old size (U.S. size 3T/4), decrease the 6-year-old pattern by: 2 cm (3/4 inch) at the top, 2 cm (3/4 inch) at the bottom, and 4 cm (1-1/2 inches) in total width.

Instructions

Make the cut

Draw the pattern on a sheet of paper and cut it out.

Fold your cloth in half, right sides facing each other.

Position the pattern along the fold.

Cut out the pattern.

Put the pattern back on the fold and repeat above steps.
NB: Be careful with stripes and checks; it's best when the patterns match up.

Assembly

Baste and then sew the two pieces, right sides facing in, from the waist to the inseam, both front and back.

Baste and then sew the inseam.

Make a hem at the bottom of each leg:
- Fold 5 mm (1/16 inch) and then 10 mm (1/8 inch).
- Sew.

Assembly of the waistband

NB: The waistband is the sewn overlap you slip the elastic into.

Make a waistband at the waist:
- Fold 5 mm (1/16 inch) and then 15 mm (3/16 inch).
- Sew, allowing an overlap of 3 cm (1-1/4 inches).

Pass the elastic through the waistband with the aid of a safety pin.

Sew together the 2 ends of the elastic.

Close the opening with a selvedge stitch.

Source: Et moi alors dans tout ça !

:laura: